Cobalt Mod Time

didnt they make up a pipe for your sho ?

they have also worked on skunks car, the KW skyline, the KW 350z … i believe jack had some stuff done by them …

what it comes down to is they have more experience with certain cars because those cars are the more popular ones to mod. so if they already have a shop full of dsm’s and evos that they are building headers for or doing turbo upgrades, dont cry if they dont have time to learn how to do a tranny swap in your cavi or some shit

no business that wants to stay in business would dare deviate from what they know when they already have all the work they can handle

hmmm… well, when i got my exhaust on the tbird last year, they did it - but they seem to prefer working on imports over there is what don said at the time. maybe things changed since then :gotme: at any rate, they do good work for a price i was pleased with. and if i’m just flat out wrong with what i said, just correct me :slight_smile:

back to the cobalt talk: i’m suprised i’m the only one to mention suspention and brake mods, not only do they increase saftey the make your ride a hell of a lot more fun to drive aorund in, i’m really glad i lowered my car and upgraded the brakes first it gave me more time to research “go fast” stuff and those brakes have saved my ass a few times as well as trying to throw passangers out of my car that don’t like to wear seatbelts :banghead: sigh good times:P

Silly Alex…I think he wants to be fast before he worries about being able to stop fast. :smiley:

and I’d say to get a pulley, I’ve seen a pullied SS around WS and sounds sick and moves pretty good too.

brakes and suspention first … they may get yah on the straights but a fun to drive car is much better in eyes…and deff get a stage 2 gm kit when its out

thanks for helpin me guys this is only my dd but i get so bored of stock stuff so i guess im gonna go with the brakes first

are you just gonna do slotted rotors and pads, or an actual brake kit? Also the Intake wouldn’t be a bad mod, it won’t really mess anything up.

slap on a 2.8, 42#er’s, maf translator to tune the injectors, header, build your own intake watch as your dyno graph reaches 260+whp

Also get an interceptor scan gauge.
http://www.aeroforcetech.com./Redline_Cobalt_tech.html

As much as I HATE this company and cant believe im going to recomend them sence they have fucked over alot of people but Intense has a kit out with a MOD pully system, injectors and the maf tanslator for around $500 that has pushed their car to 270whp

ok now this is all what i would do, i have owned a redline for over a year and this is just what i have gathered. first i will comment on this post… a maf translator will not work on this car sorry say but it will totally mess up everything because this car is not 100% a maf ran car, actually 1 maf, 3 maps very hard to work on because they all bounce their readings off eachother.

next about working on the brakes not really needed, i dont know about the cobalt 100% but if it stops like the redline than brakes are the least of your worries… suspension how ever needs some work so i would say lower it.

next issue is wheel hop check cobaltss.com or redlineforums.com for the gg tq brace this is 120$ (approx) takes about 10min to install and eliminates 99% of wheel hop.

the intake is not worth the money if you ask me just search on cobalt ss on how to put a k&n filter on the cari have done it, not that hard and good increase in supercharger wine and air flow.

now if you are still looking to got faster i would go with the GMPP staged kits, they are not out as of yet but will be worth the wait… the numbers i am hearing are around 270hp with a good exhaust(Headers and cat back), that brings me to my next point…

good exhaust- all about how much you want to spend but there are several companies that make a good exhaust for the css and there is always custom cat back systems. all what you want to do but i would look for a good set of headers because the stock ones suck!

and now from here its all baised on what you are looking to do 300hp. 400hp… but the more power the harder to keep a DD

o and Nitrous… NX is making a good wet kit for the car that is gonna be a fairly easy install.

I’m kinda jelous of how easy it is to see decent gains on this car compared to mine

DO you have any data to support this? I have read on both cobalt sites of people using these with no issues.

no that was just baised on what was going on when i stopped modding my redline/stopped looking at the forums. back than i was being told by 2 different companies that a simple translator would not work because of the map sensors on the car as well and changing one of the set would throw codes. if they work than that is great but i personally would still stear clear of them and just go for gm stage 1 because they will be a total re-tune.

and when you say translator are you talking like a safc or more along the lines of the gm maf translator that the f-body guys are using?

I would rather use a afc to trick the MAF to adjust the fuel. Only reason I used the Term MAF translator is, 1 not everyone knows what a afc is and 2 people on the cobalt forums have used that term to discribe it. I dont know about the f-body guys set up. IM not firmilar with them so I cant coment on it. I do know that afc’s work great on gtp’s to adjust the fuel curve when installing new injectors and for basic tunning. IM sure the GM stage 1 and 2 kits will perform great and its nice that they burn the pcm but I feel they will cost to much for what thier worth. Untill a programer comes out the GM kits will be the safest way to go but there are other options for people to try and sample. This is all sepculation sence I own a gtp and not a cobalt/redline and im just going buy things I have read.

I have herd that these cars love to throw codes left and right for simple changes like doing a intake. I am amazed at some of the numbers that people are starting to achieve with simple mods. It will be neat to see what the next year will hold and what products will come out for these cars.

The best way to find out if Lee will do the exhaust is to stop in and find out…We will work on any sport compact really and seeing as the winter slows down here a little Im sure Lee wouldn’t mind getting yet another exhaust under his belt…

Hybrid Connection
2756 Transit Road
West Seneca, NY 14224

yea, the codes issue is why i am saying go with gmpp stage kits because if it is his DD than you dont want to start worring about codes like i did with my redline, anything you put on it made it throw a code… to an extent.

and i am almost sure hybrid has already made 1 exhaust for the redline (the SCAP) redline to be exact, not sure when it is gonna be ready/sold to the general public but last time i talked to mark he said it was being made for the car. and the redline and cobalt are the same exhaust so it will fit

ZZP pullies > intense “ANSI” suck (slips)

2.85 racegas 3.0 93oct
LINK

Green ford L 42.5’s
or #007 Lucas 42.5s

ZZP AFC v2.2 LINK
base setting aorund 93% 1-13 MAFF khz’s will work to drive to dial in better. Use WB.

Make yourself a CAI

Did you check you IC pump wireing already?

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y9/JACK1992VR4/VR4/DSC00260.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y9/JACK1992VR4/VR4/DSC00266.jpg

HYBRID Exhaust… :tup:

well the motors that were built right the first time are hard to squeeze more power without doing serious work…

I like the look, but hate the weight. Lightweight, smaller diameter and wider wheels would be my first upgrade.

yea, those 18’s are heavy get some 17’s or 16’s if you can find some nice ones in the bolt pattern… and than lower it!