Yeah, this might be a lil’ long but I’m lookin’ for advice.
LAST APRIL I ordered a 350 crate motor from Year One for my ‘83. I actually did some research before I threw down my plastic and found out that these motors were built by a company called “High Tech” in Utah. They supplied a few motors to Chip Foose on Overhaulin’ so how bad could they be right? It seemed like a screamin good deal. $2995 for a late model 1 piece 4-bolt block, nodular crank, powered metal rods, hyper pistons, ported vortec heads, roller cam (GM Hot Cam), making around 425HP/425ftlb.
I had some issues with the front crossmember and front suspension so it was June before I actually was able to drop the motor into the car (yeah I know I’m slow but I got other shit to attend to like fucking yard work, etc). I was under the hood with a container of gas, working the throttle, while my son was hitting the key. The motor fires up and my son yells “hey dad, why is the whole car shaking like that?” Unfortunately, it was true. The whole car shook unbelieveably, and the dashpad looked like it was going to bounce off. I put a torque wrench on the balancer and got about 35ftlb of force needed to turn the motor over…until I reached one particular spot. Then it required over 50ftlb to get past the tight spot. It doesn’t really surprise me that I got the bad one. Happens to me ALL THE FUCKING TIME. I have to return almost everything I buy before I get a good one.
I called Year One and they promptly gave me High Tech’s number. I called them and got alot of bullshit & run-around. “Well let’s try a different balancer, or maybe a different flexplate, etc.” It took me about a month of this shit before they finally agreed to send me a new motor (never mind that now I had to do the swap all over again).
So now it’s August and the second motor is going in. We start it up and it seems a lot better than the previous motor. I finish the installation and all the extra shit to make everything work, crate up the bad motor, and they come and get it.
By now it’s September. I finally get to drive the car. It seems sorta ok, but hard to notice any vibration with straight headers. Now I have ignition problems. Fucking Summit HEI dies on the road after about 20 miles of use. (Never buy Summit anything). I have to get it home on a flatbed and replace the distributor with an MSD unit.
It’s now October and I finally get the exhaust system done and I can drive the car for an extended period for the first time. Seems pretty good but still some vibration starting around 2500RPM.
OK, winter’s here and the car gets put away until spring.
Spring’s here and time for a new transmission. The car goes into the transmission shop. I am getting a custom-built 700R4 with manual valve body and all the best shit they can find. (Maybe this will be the end of the vibration problem as well). I stop up to see how the work is progressing and they tell me, by the way, you have a bad vibration in that motor.
Can I just shoot myself now?
I attempt to call the PRESIDENT of Year One (since his phone number is posted up on their web site) but I only get a sales guy. He listens to my story and actually agrees to issue me a refund.
OK NOW…
I’m going to need a new motor. Here are the candidates:
#1 - This is the one I really want. :wackit:
http://www.ultrastreet.net/434_realstreet.asp
Dart little M block, eagle 4340 crank & rods, mahle forged pistons, Dart Iron Eagle Platinum 215 heads, 434 cubes, 495 HP, 525 ftlb.
$8k - 3 weeks delivery
#2 - But, I am also looking at this.
http://www.tandlengines.com/chevy_small_block_aluminum2.html
GM 4 bolt block, 4340 crank & rods, mahle forged pistons, Dart Pro 1 heads, 408 cubes, 510 HP, 500 ftlb.
$5k - 6-8 weeks delivery
I mean three grand less for basically the same thing??? They are supposedly a NASCAR engine builder, they have been featured in all the car mags, it just seems too good to be true. I gave them a call and I have a couple issues. The crank is by a company called “K1” that I never heard of. The rods are Carillo so they’re ok. Also, they are using a 2-piece crank in a 1-piece block by means of some type of adapter???
Does anyone have any experience with, or know anybody who has dealt with T&L before?
Is “K1” crank Chinese junk?
Anyone ever heard of using a 2-piece crank in a 1-piece block?
Does anyone know of any local builders who are really good?
Yeah, I know I should just start from scratch and build my own, but:
- I am lazy
- I am impatient
- I do not have unlimited time to work on it (unfortunately)
What to do???