Does anyone know how to go about getting D2 suspension serviced or replaced?
Your help is much appreciated!!
What do you mean by getting them serviced? There isnt really much to do as far as servicing goes. Replacing them is straight forward. You have 3 bolts on the top of your strut tower and 2 on the spindle, with these 5 bolts out they will come out.
do it yourself,
it is remarkably easy…
i dont really know much about cars but i have taken my D2’s in and out maybe 4 times… all you need is a 17mm and a 14mm ratchet and a jack
i took my car for a boot last night at it was probably about -1 to +2 range outside
they feel stiffer that usuial… i think ive been driving a buttery corolla
anyone whos been on them all winter so far what do yuo have to say?
Sorry I wasnt very clear…
There is something wrong with the suspension, I had my mechanic look at them, and he said that one shock is gone. The suspension is only 6 months old, and it should still be coverd by the warantee.
I want to know what steps to take now…
Thanks
your mechanic is prolly just brushing you off, most typical mechanics dont know $hit about performance gear.
if you are hearing rattling or knocking you just need to tighten stuff up.
mine are rattling a bit, but i’l tighen them up good when i adjust them next week.
generally if your shock is blown you should see oil squirting out of it and hear a pretty… horrible noise.
thats what happened to one of my kyb’s
Yes mine is making noise… its almost as if the shock is bottoming out… you hear like a banging noise as if it is hitting the strut mount…
- any idea what that could be… ??? and tighten what///
well that confirms that you should never trust a mechanic…
they have to break out the book when you ask them to put a starter on a 240sx, so dont ever trust their opinion on coilovers unless they have owned them before… and i dont think they make them for buicks.
everyone has this problem, as i said mine are a little frisky when it gets really cold out.
last time i had this problem it was simply an issue of tighening them up again that is all.
if you are putting winter wheels on or anything just get in there and tighten all the collars, and all the bolts.
2 bolts above the hub up front, one out back. both top bolts out back and 3 up front. you should be good with that… nothing to crazy.
unless the addition of coilovers messed somehting else up like your ball joints / end-links (those clunk when buggered) your stock multi-link can take a beating with the addition of coilovers.
shortly after install i replaced my ball joints, LCA’s, end links, TC rods etc… the whole front sus is new…lol
have fun… learn
Thanks for the info… Im not driving my car… I havent driven it since october… Someone has also suggested tightning things… but i had no idea, and I really dont wanna do anything myself… So i gess in the spring time i’ll get them to take off my shock (rear passenger side) and see whats loose or something.
Thanks
Shakes head You havn’t learned anything have you? :roll: Rule one: Your mechanic is an idiot unless he regularly puts a wrench to high performance modified cars. Rule two: Even if your mechanic does work on hot cars he can still be an idiot. Rule three: Your mechanic will charge you an arm and a leg to do work that could be done by a lobotomized monkey. Why don’t you learn a few things and try, just try, to complete some basic repairs yourself. You will save yourself lots of money and you will learn many useful skills. Not having a garage isn’t an excuse because many of us work in our driveways. C’mon dude do it for the Grove!
screw driveways, i had to do d2’s and jic’s on the street.
hahahaha, no more GTA FOR YOUR MIKE!
Yup, I’ve had them on since May, and they’ll be on until the end of the year. It rides with similar stiffness, the only difference I have noticed is it is a bit more noisy in terms of spring sqeaks.
The “Do not use below 5 degrees” is just anouther way of protecting their ass. The viscosity range of the oil is most likely good for -15 or lower, with at most just accelerated valve wear.
Shakes head You havn’t learned anything have you? :roll: Rule one: Your mechanic is an idiot unless he regularly puts a wrench to high performance modified cars. Rule two: Even if your mechanic does work on hot cars he can still be an idiot. Rule three: Your mechanic will charge you an arm and a leg to do work that could be done by a lobotomized monkey. Why don’t you learn a few things and try, just try, to complete some basic repairs yourself. You will save yourself lots of money and you will learn many useful skills. Not having a garage isn’t an excuse because many of us work in our driveways. C’mon dude do it for the Grove![/quote]
HMMM why doesnt he just throw up some money!!! Im sure someone on here will do it for this guy!!
Maybe after you can install his filter for him!!! JKS :lol:
Anyways Doggie Dog just ask anyone of the guys on here like Pavel Bomex, Gt Greg,etc… They will probably do it for you, for a small little charge !!!
honestly,
if you wanna give me some cash i would do it…lol
i cant beleive i just offered my own tech services, that is hilarious for so many reasons.
anyways yes…
the WORST person you can EVAR trust your car to is a mechanic… WORST…
at least if you gave your car to a 75 year old blind woman she would tell you straight up: “sorry sunny i dont know shit about your car”
but if you take it to SPeedy they will think: 'iono shit about this car or non-oem USDM parts"
but they will say: “sure sunny, $80 an hour and you’re taken care of”
case in Point:
my GF got that flyer for a $29.95 winter maintenance inspection from speedy.
took it in for the oil / lube / filter dude calls her up and say:
“miss you need brakes bad, all four corners”
this of course was true and we knew it, the quote for front disc and pads, rear drums turned and new shoes:
$550 - parts
$370 - labour
those are estimates but accurate to within $20 of final quote.
so i told her to tell them to fuck off and went and bought all the parts that were quoted, plus new drums, spark plugs, wheels cylinders etc…
i paid $140 for EVERYTHING and more than they quoted at $550
then my buddy chris put it all on for a like $150
…your mechanic is a bull-shit artist…
unless you eat dinner with him (ie. he’s in the family) he will screw you.
he already lied to you once about your coilover being blown.
he does not know
his ceritfication menas he can read an FSM and operate a ratchet properly and follow simple orders.
it does not make him savvy to modified cars, it does not give him the insite to diagnose detailed technical problems, it does not make him honest, nor does it make him the authority on anything.
dont go back there… ever…
i was charged $400 to change a starter on my first 240sx… i can do it for under $50 now
i paid $300 for friggin wiper motors on my first 240sx… i can do it for nothing now
i paid $855 to fix my timing chain on my first 240sx… i can buy 3 of those entire cars for that now…
these were by reputalble places that my parents send their cars and by nissan themselves.
LEARN or LOSE
so d2 coilovers will last forever??
nope,
they are entry level gear.
but they dont break in a couple months of moderate use.
Does anything?
so then how come it’s impossible that these korean coilovers that nobody knows what they’re valved for, and nobody had even heard of a little over a year ago, could have blown??