Desperately need help! Nothing getting done

This is a post of emergency. I only say this because for the past few months NOTHING has been getting done and conditions are becoming worse.

SR20DET-

1) A main priority is that the car is overheating. It needs a PROPER tune and ECU remap. Also the car is running rich from this and does fart at lower RPMs when downshifting.

2) Aside I also need help with the following to install/repair
-front caliper and rotor swap with r32 (already owned)
-electrical work required for hatch wiring
-razo pedal install (requires drilling through OEM pedals)
-battery cable needs to be rerouted NOT through the heater ports (where previous owner had did it: FAIL) because the heater core install is something else needing put in

if ANYBODY could please PLEASE help me with any of these but mainly the priority (1)), whether actual help or even a guy to take it to. I can’t let my car just sit and slowly die. Thanks for your read any help if you can

-Tom

What is your setup?

Stock S13 SR20DET (redtop)
Blitz FMIC
Megan racing 3" Downpipe
Apexi Stainless steel 3" GT spec exhaust w/ muffler(front to back)
Exedy Clutch (stage 1 streetable drive)w/ Fizenza short throw shifter
Sheep Dog BOV, HKS intake
Walbro 255 fuel pump
TEIN Type-FLEX coilovers

that’s the main parts needed to know

Also to mention, when it is overheating it sometimes has a tendency to jerk like it’s about to stall (only if the car is really pushed, not excessively but enough to go fairly fast). The only temporary solution is to slowly drive it out and then it’s fine.

But the issue is definitely reoccurring and persistent

Possible head gasket leak. My KA’s temp gauge would skyrocket when pushed, but when slowly driven it would maintain proper temperature range.

yeah it skyrockets when pushed or simply driven for a certain distance. I pull the car over, let it sit with the fan on and then the temp drops and then steadies…still a little hot.

is this an expensive fix? or anybody who can help me look into this?

Yeah, it will be a big job. You pretty much have to take apart the engine down to the engine block and replace the gasket there. Head gaskets are a PITA for most cars, especially with SR’s and KA’s because they use a timing chain. It will probably take at least 1/2 a day to do at a shop. If you do decide to take it to a shop, you might as well invest in some new ARP head studs too. That is probably the most proper way to fix it.

The not so proper way. Roll the dice.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Head-Gasket-Fix-1-One-Step-Repair-Formula-Rislone_W0QQitemZ110416985089QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item19b55d7c01&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116

Oh great, thought so. Fuck my life. Reaction = :worf:

Man I don’t have the money for this (not SO much). Erm, is there anywhere I can take it to who well-knows SRs and is reasonably priced fairly?

Make a post in car chat and find out, i’m not too sure about SR specialty shops around here, the only 1 i know of is at Kennedy and Eglinton and they specialize in Nissans, but I’ve personally never been there. Usually alot of S13’s and Skylines parked in front of it though, so they must be good?

Yeah I know him (well know of him, and met him). Tony @ Andrew Motors.

Hey was your leak internal? I’m going to do a compression test tomorrow to see.

Yeah it was, my exhaust was white colored coming out, usually happens at cold start-up but it would still be white when warmed. I used the head gasket fix and it worked, i used it because i didn’t want to spend any more money on the KA and needed to get the car to my driveway from the shop.

hmm my exhaust is neither blue (oil) or white.
If anything it’s black from running too rich.

You losing coolant?

nope definitely not. and I haven’t smelled any burning

i meant is your coolant level in your resevoir going down

resevoir isn’t going down. oil is fine. no leaks on pavement.

though out of all parts it feels like the rad has been getting hotter than I last remembered.

Also when the car starts overheating in this way, acceleration is greatly affected and turbo doesn’t sound as loud as it should…could it be a rad connection that came undone or leaking?

I still wanna go with the head gasket tho :confused:

possible thermostat sticking or even an air bubble in the cooling system… If you’re not losing coolant and don’t see anything burning I’d check other things before HG.

True, check thermostat, maybe it isn’t opening. Air bubble to supposedly s-chassis engines are prone to have overheating problems if it isn’t bled properly.

Burp the system, leave it on without rad cap for half hour or so at idle and keep an eye at the temp gauge, make sure to leave the heat on blast. Along with this, keep topping up coolant as needed.

I’ll give it a try…though I have no heater core or any climate control, haha