I have two Accords ('95 v6 / '97 SE) that are shifting like old cars. I would like to swap the ATF, but I see that a regular change only gets about half the fluid. Can anyone tell me how to empty it more completely? Thanks.
Drain & Refill 3x, each time you refill idle the car in each gear for 1-2 minutes then drain. You should be able to get almost all the old fluid out this way. Also only use Honda ATF
pull both lines off the trans cooler, get one empty bucket, and one w/ fresh fluid in it, dip the spit hose in the empty bucket and the swallow hose in the fresh fluid, run the car and b sure u don’t run out of fluid w/ the car running. that’s basically how the “pros” do it w/ the “flush” machines.(it flushes off the existing trans pressure)
Use the transcooler lines, just make sure that you don’t let air into the system (on the “intake” side), as this is what Flush machines do.
When You see clean new fluid coming out of the “outlet” side, you’re done. Then, change the filter.
Don’t expect it to perform miracles tho.
Honda transmissions don’t have serviceable transmission filters
learn something new everyday.
Miracle expected: mediochre Honda AT should transform into 5sp/6sp MT.
This is the best way to service these transmissions, and they will take between 2-3 qts per drain/fill (thats it, no serviceable tranny filter) even though they hold nearly 12-13 qts IIRC. Only use Honda ATF Z1, even though regular atf will work, honda ATF Z1 is friction modified. If you use regular ATF, hard shifting usually results.
ugh… i’d take it to the stealership so that you know you’re getting the correct fluid. Not something i’d want to take on myself.
just get the atf at the stealership and diy it, if you can do an oil change on your car than this isnt that much harder. You just need a long funnel, a tub to catch the old atf in, ramps (or jackstands) and a 3/8" ratchet. Dont even need a socket
If the transmission is starting to go, flushing the fluid can be a BAD BAD BAD thing. ATF contains detergents and other pretty strong chemicals that can actually finalize a dying trans. When I worked at AAMCO we were not allowed by corporate policy to change the fluid on any car if it had a burnt smell or looked even slightly brown. If the clutch disks are starting to burn up, the detergents can actually speed up that process and cause the unit to fail very rapidly. Valvoline has issued the same policy since they got stuck with numerous rebuild bills from flushing the fluid on cars that were very close to death.
That’s an important warning for all, thanks very much. I’m pretty sure the old fluid is good, but I’ll check first.
Based on other descriptions, it sounds like the fluid runs from the fill location through all gears to the drain location. If so, then this technique must work by dilution less than replacement. I’d rather see the fluid “run clear”, but then I have to see if I can rig that with confidence.
I already bought the fluid, but apparently not enough. Maybe I’ll have them change the second vehicle, or at least check the price. Don Davis has always treated me well.
I would change it a couple times. You can never change your tranny fluid enough.
So many threads around the WWW, so little information. Many say to NEVER flush a Honda AT (One said something about torque-converter material running amok). Most say use Honda ATF only; given the continuing successful secrecy about that I have to accept that.
Being an engineer, I very much prefer to have information, but I guess I’ll have to operate in the dark. I was really hoping that somebody here had been inside, seen the way the fluid goes through, and could tell me how to empty and refill ~100% (or tell me why not to).
I look at diagrams and think I could maybe go through the gears with the engine off and drain open, give a couple of hours in each gear, see how much comes out. Maybe I could assist with air. Maybe I need a fill reservoir. Probably I can’t tell the difference between the new and old fluid anyway (new Honda smells more like fruit, maybe darker red).
Anyway, while I would love to learn more about that, I have a different problem now!
Necessity beat intent to the punch. I had to remove the radiator to put in a new one. Obviously I had to disconnect the ATF cooler loop too. In an apparent early Alzheimer’s episode, I started the car to put up the windows when rain started. Lots of ATF spilled out the nearer/lower connection, which I had not plugged yet, because it was not previously flowing.
Perhaps I got an advance on draining more than 50% of the ATF, but I think it was only 2-3 quarts. Now I’m worried about where it came from, and whether I’m going to have air trapped in the tranny or something, and whether I need to do something that’s not in the manual.
Could anybody please chime in about my concerns? I don’t need help with the embarrassment, thanks.
i wouldnt worry about air in lines, but i would make sure you have it filled properly
For anybody who might see this and wonder, it ended up taking four quarts, instead of the usual 2.5, out of a total capacity of 6.3 quarts. Apparently I did accomplish something. It shifts noticeably more promptly now, though still kicks a bit.
For my other Accord, this will be much more important, because I’m sure it has aftermarket ATF, and it might even have incompatible ATF. I will try to repeat this, and probably do it again after a month to get better than 82% of it changed. I think that makes over $50 in fluid.
There are no special instructions for refilling an AT after service in my manual; they just refer to the regular change instructions. I put in 3 quarts, ran it through the gears, topped it off, drove it, then topped it off again. I didn’t see anything else I could do. Please chime in, thanks.
yeah that sounds about right. Regular dex/mercon atf will work but it gives hard shifting in hondas because the atf Z1 is friction modified vs regular ATF. Yeah i think its like 6.3 qts on top of whatever the converter holds.