under further inspection of the sr20 manifold pictured above i have come to realize that the 2nd and 4th flanges have been cut off and flipped and re welded.
interesting
time to learn how to weld cast
under further inspection of the sr20 manifold pictured above i have come to realize that the 2nd and 4th flanges have been cut off and flipped and re welded.
interesting
time to learn how to weld cast
im doing somewhat the same thing with my car but i have to keep mine dot spec.
as far as welding cast… back in the day i cant remember what we were doing but we threw the peice in a fire/coals untill it was extremely hot then stick welded it
-Matt
lets just weld the header to the head
HAHHA
dont worry dude my tig can weld cast
if you guys have any input or suggestions please feel free to comment
still looking for a chassis
check out 2 so far still looking!!!
Like the other guys said sorta, if you’re gonna weld cast, heat the fuck out of it first, use a torch, or whatever, but make it super hot, and grind your joint on an angle to gain more penetration - more to do with thickness than the fact that it’s cast… (so basically, when the two pieces are together and you’re about to weld, you’re welding into a groove / like that instead of a flat joint like __ __ <-that). And if Sasha has a good, heavy tig welder, you should be able to use that with great results.
^ thanks for the input
you need to use special “Ni” rod to weld cast iron. It is welding rod with a high nickel content… put the rod in the oven for a while too… actually, put the whole mani and flanges in the oven and heat it all up like Adam H did with his turbo and manifold. I don’t know, maybe 400deg. or so.
But yeh, do the / thing too… much more joint to weld contact.
Update!
Chassis has been found
has some body rust not too much
frame is very very solid!
overall great chassis for the project
PS most of this stuff is for sale on the car because im throwing a new motor and stuff in so check my for sale threads in my sig for anything…
Wow, how’d you score that?? That must not have been in your 200-400 price range, seeing as you can get that much for the oem areo alone, lol. If it was, man that was an awsome find. either way still looks like you found a solid car for your project.
Anyways looking forward to seeing updates, Good luck.
yea it was over my budget but parting it should bring it back down…
motor runs
only problems it has are: powersteering isnt working, and muffler has a hole.
and the fact that its automatic haha
car is lookn good avery. hope it has a vlsd so we can run a session soontime.
i cant wait to see 17x9s on that thing!
we be tear’n shitz up son
no need for mounting, no need to balance, slap on the rears, 15min later cut and pry. repeat.
hahaha
drift sluts gotta be 5 lug
out with the old
engine bay cleaning time is now!
who’s the boss?
Angelerra is da boss.
got a little bit more done
so after rounding off the lower nut on the ka engine mount 2 hours later i had sawzalled/drilled/cutting wheeled the mount off and i was ready to put the sr in
sr went in smooth except applesauce dropped the tranny on my hand …fucker
who needs rebars?
new origin stylish going on
front bumper is broken from last season i gotta fiberglass it and fix it before it goes back on
are those deatschwerk injectors?
This car is very impressive…. I really admire the time and effort you’re putting into making one bad-ass drift machine!
Someone’s been spending to much time on Ziptied…lol
Oh and take the ABS out!
yes they are but i will be going back to stock for now
thanks for all the kindness
hahaha yea i like Ziptied build threads, abs stays to lazy to remove it
starting to fit aero, side skirt is being held on by 2 zip ties
rear bumper is going to need some work currently being held on by 2 zipties as well
front bumper is going to need some fiberglass repair
Nice,sure will look nice when its done…good work so far i cant wait to see the finished car