I’m fucking with you, but, my truck>your truck, srs
I WAS AGREEING WITH YOU DUMBASS. WAS SAYING ITS BETTER TO DO THIS THAN MY FIRST POST.
Yeah and?
SORRY WAYNE I’M STILL HUNGOVER FROM FRIDAY, I STILL LOVE YOU
well maybe I read it wrong but I thought you were saying that might be the cause of the issue
No, drain the current fluid thru a paint strainer or screen of sorts and inspect if for debris
no he was asking me if you’d see a problem by dumping the fluid.
yes/no?
I really dont want to drain it because its expensive as fuck. Draining it to fix an issue is fine but not checking for one.
Its $19 a bottle and takes 2.5 bottles and a tube of friction modifier
No way your rear end oil costs that much, but anyway, drain it into a clean container, strain it and reuse it
Yeah, its synthetic and thats whats required. The front takes the cheap shit but for some reason the rear needs the expensive shit. I bought it at Advance when I got it changed by a friend.
Really I dont have any desire to be fucking with gear oil and wouldnt know what I was looking at if I drained it anyway. Id be draining it, looking at it and then putting new fluid into something with bad parts anyway.
I dont know how to replace bearings in a rearend and would rather have somebody else do it if thats the case. Id cause more trouble with it.
Drain it into a clean container, run it thru a fine screen (or a paint filter, just might take a long time), and inspect for debris. Very simple concept.
Yeah and if theres something in there Id have to take it somewhere to get fixed anyway so theres not much of a point in doing that other than saying there was something in it.
Right, I see no advantage of troubleshooting a problem yourself (for free) before bringing it somewhere for repair.
What I mean is I really wouldnt be able to tell where the metal shavings are coming from and I wouldnt be able to repair it because I dont know what to do.
I really wanted a general idea of what could be wrong and to see if anybody would be interested in fixing it.
Jellies didn’t ya just do a pinion seal ? I’m betting it wasn’t tightened and lock tightened . Cords have a bad issue with the lock nut loosenening up and doing that . Ya working Tommorow? I’ll come get your truck and see what it is man
The pinion seal was replaced around 62k and the truck now has almost 93k on it.
Im working 8- atleast 5.
K ill grab the truck , what I’m betting is the jam nut loosened up and the ring and pinion now has play causing a gear whine . Most of the time ya can retorque the not and lock it and your fine but sometimes it does wipe kit the bearings and ring and pinion .
Awesome. Thanks.
I hope its just a simple tightening like that.
Ya better , those rears are not cheap to redo