So - my 99 GST’s crank pulley separated(pretty common after a ton of reading) I was literally putting it away for storage back in October the day it happened. I had just parked in the storage places parking lot, and immediately noticed smoke coming from under the hood and shut it down as quickly as I could.
After lifting the hood, and letting the smoke clear, I could see that there were small bits of melted plastic on the timing belt(I do not have an upper timing belt cover - so I was able to see this). After further inspection you could see that the alternator belt was being pulled at a weird angle, and I couldn’t really tell what I was working with. After calling a friend who was supposed to help me put it away - he called another friend who’s a big DSMer and he mentioned that the crank pulley’s separate on these cars for some reason(Terrific Mistu engineering I guess). And after further reading on various sites, I was able to confirm that this was true, and a lot of times it takes out the timing belt, and various other damages, when it finally gives.
So we pushed it into the storage unit - thank god it was already there - It wasn’t a far push… And prayed to God all Winter that the timing belt was ok. While I was waiting - I bought the essential parts that I knew I needed - New timing cover, and a Fluidampr Pulley - which might be overkill, but I don’t want to chance it.
And here I am now. We took it apart to see the damage yesterday - and found that the Crank Pulley indeed separated. It Completely rubbed through the Timing Cover - and because I think I caught it in time, that appears to be the only damage it did - aside from the melted plastic. We cleared all of the melted plastic where the pulley sits, and removed any remaining on the timing belt. Everything else seems fine.
Now here’s the question.
Upon looking inspecting the belt since the cover was off, we noticed that the Timing belt Idler seems to have a little side-to-side play. Is this normal - or should it have no play what-so-ever? I never noticed any noise coming from the timing belt area while it was running last summer - and from what I’ve read these shouldn’t have play at all. Is it possible to change this without taking off the Timing Belt? - Guessing we could mark the belt positions on the cam gears, and try to hold it in place while sliding a new one on.
When I had bought this car(From Nikeman) 2 years ago, he had put in the ad that the timing belt was new, and it looks like it. I had figured by “New” he meant the entire job was done - maybe he did do it - not important - other than I am assuming that these parts are fairly new except it seems that this could be prematurely going. Everything else Timing belt-wise seems ok. I am trying to avoid doing the complete job - but I also don’t want to half ass it. Will I be ok to just change out the Timing idler? I’ve only put 4000 miles on the car since I’ve had it in the past 2 years, so I can’t imagine how this could be going already.
pics added - any help regarding the timing idler - whether or not it can just be replaced simply without removing the belt?
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I think that changing the idler without messing with the belt would be tough. Just mark the cam gears and get the belt out of the way. There are hundreds of write ups on changing the timing belt on these. Just follow one of them to put your belt back on. It’s really not that bad. It’ll also allow you the chance to fully inspect the belt while it’s out.
And the fluidampr is awesome. Especially if the balance shafts have been deleted. I have the same one in my car.
Looks pretty detailed. I might try it - just want a work around that’s safe. Hopefully I can pull it off.
---------- Post added at 09:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:04 PM ----------
It’s not supposed to have play right? The Idler? because if it’s ok that it moves slightly side-to-side, that would be a life saver. BTW this is my first time working on the car on my own - with someone experienced of course. Feels good to actually learn how to do this stuff. Itching to get this back on the road with all of the nice weather!
Alright, so we just replaced the idler pulley - ended up just marking the cams and crank on the belt, and tried to do this the easy way… but we ended up taking the auto-tensioner off. Not sure if I should just buy a new one - it doesn’t seem to depress. Do you have to use a vice grip? Reading DSM forums atm.
Ive always compressed mine in a vise, and put a pin in it to hold it (ive also used a drill bit, finishing nail, small allen key - pretty much anything that will fit and not bend). then bolted it back on, and continued on according to the vfaq. if you do it that way, just be sure to close the vise slowly…the tensioner will go in just not that quick.
ive done that a few times on the same tensioner. i probably should replace it just because, but ive never had an issue with it and its not leaking, and its still running strong.
Also - if the balance shafts are still in and your running a balance shaft belt, be sure to time the oil pump as well (screwdriver method is what i always do, not the ‘which way does the sprocket fall’).
Ok - so we’ve got the idler pulley on - all timing marks are still in line - we got the auto tensioner back on - according to VFAQ it has to be tensioned to a certain length. It’s slightly under tensioned. Is this because we are reusing the same belt and the belt is already broken in?
Ok, so we got the belt tensioned within spec - or so we thought. started it up and it backfired, and doesn’t sound right now when we try to start it again. Guessing timing is off. I made a thread about it on DSMtalk. They think I am off a tooth, and possibly bent some valves… Great.
We made sure we were dead on with timing accross the board. I don’t know if maybe the belt jumped or what. I have someone from the boards who can take a look at it next Thursday, but is there anyone on here available sooner to maybe do a compression test? Mind is racing over the fact that we might have destroyed the valves.
We were able to crank the engine by hand afterwards, and felt the compression cycles, does that mean anything? when we try to start it, it just sounds like it’s just spinning now. It sounded different before - like bum bum bum then start. If it is timing that’s off, if we put it back to where it’s supposed to be, how lucky can I get that it will be ok? I guess I won’t know anything till we do the compression test, or pull the head. This sucks.
ok. so we didn’t have much time this Thursday to tear it all down. We turned the crank over by hand and could still feel the compression cycles - I am guessing that’s still a good sign??? It also didn’t sound unusual while we work turning it - no clanks or sounds of things being broken.
We didn’t try to start it again, given the fact that we didn’t have time to take the timing cover off, but we did take pictures of the cams lined up, and the notch on the fluidampr/crank pulley notch that is in line with the marks on the timing cover.
The reason why I don’t think we are off on timing is because when the cams are lined up at TDC, the notch on the Crank Pulley is lined up as well. The Crank pulley can only go on one way, so I am assuming it’s correct. Am I right to assume that timing is probably ok? Take a look at the pics. Any how, We are still tearing it down next week to make damn sure nothing jumped.
