Im replacing my timing belt tensioner, water pump etc. on my 94 Civic Ex.
Im about ready to pop the crank bolt, but before I finish everything I remembere that when the civic would first start up it would “tick” “tick” “tick” “tick” “tick” “tick” and then stop once fully warmed. I was tol dit did that ecause no oil was up there and it needed time to get the oil there. Someone else said it was the lifters needing adjusting.
I though since its a SOHC it doesnt have lifters, unlike DOHC motors.
Is there anything I can adjust/check right now since my valve cover is off and im ready to do it?
I have a feeler guage when I checked my tegs motors.
Search valve lash huh…ok ill try.
Also, I just tried to pop the crack bolt and the crank pulley kept spinning. When I did the TB replacement on the teg I had my brother put it in 5th and jam on the brakes. This time I had him jam on the brakes in PARK and DRIVE and it kept spinning. How can I stop the pulley from spinning so i can get that bolt off? BTW its an Automatic.
To get the pulley off use an impact or a chain wrench around the pulley. or if you don’t have that take the pass side tire off and put a screwdriver in the cooling fins of the breaks and let it get to the caliper and then you can spin it off… Don’t worry about the tick…every Honda does it b/c no one goes to get the valves adjusted when they should… but it is real easy to fix
cool. i got the pulley locked down tight by using a pipe wrench and then i had a 18"extension and a 18" breakerbar which was in a 7’ pipe for tq and BAM…came off
dont even adj it … if something happens get a new motor :gotme:
[quote=“rugsr,post:10,topic:36895"”]
cool. i got the pulley locked down tight by using a pipe wrench and then i had a 18"extension and a 18" breakerbar which was in a 7’ pipe for tq and BAM…came off
ok so bolt is off, crank is off, water pump is off, tentioner is off
NOW: the new pump is on, new tentioner is on, the new belt is on.
The way I did it was mark the teeth and spaces on the old belt, matched it to the new belt and then match the new belt marks to the marks on the crank and cam pulleys.
This way I didnt have to set the timing…thats ok right? Nothing was spun/moved.
Also, how do you adjust for the tension? can the belt be too tight?
ok so bolt is off, crank is off, water pump is off, tentioner is off
NOW: the new pump is on, new tentioner is on, the new belt is on.
The way I did it was mark the teeth and spaces on the old belt, matched it to the new belt and then match the new belt marks to the marks on the crank and cam pulleys.
This way I didnt have to set the timing…thats ok right? Nothing was spun/moved.
Also, how do you adjust for the tension? can the belt be too tight?
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yes the belt can be too tight, when its finished the return side of the belt (closest to the front of the car) should be able to only twist 90 degrees (parallel with block)
you have to make sure all your marks are on line, then spin the crank with a ratchet (counterclockwise i believe)3 teeth to set tension, then tighten down the tensioner bolt to spec…
i have not done one in a few months, pm don (carnut) he will be able to tell you if its clockwise or counterclockwise…
if to tight… the belt will flip over on it self …doing the timeing is real easy to do … just test that the marks line up… and then turn 6 full revolutions and the marks should be lined up still if you feal anything funny or here anything funny somethign is wrong and you need to redo timeing
damn i did that and then i pushed on the tensioner to make it a little bit more tighter.
everything is ready to go. all buttoned up. i do not want to take it apart again…damn
im gonna go sit in a corner and rock back and forth until i figure out what to do…