Anyone available to give me a hand setting the timing belt on my sol tomorrow? I must keep setting it a tooth off because its unwinding. Any help from someone who has done it before would be great.
i can probably help out. any more info as to what its doing?
first time I tried to start the car it wouldn’t start. Pulled off the timing belt, put it back on and it started. Now I tried to start the car and I can hear that its off again, won’t start. Hopefully my valves are ok.
yikes !!! how does it keep slipping off?
I would definitely be worried that a piston slapped a valve and bent it
I think ive been putting it on wrong, just one tooth off and it will unwind itself. Im pretty conserned about the valves as well. I heard the starter ‘stall out’ and start up rough again I knew immediately I was having timing issues.
Did you get either the head shaved, the block decked, or both (also the combination of, say, a two-layer head gasket as well)? I recall seeing someone write up a little tidbit about how much even a little bit of machining can bump off your cam/crank timing. I’ve had a couple of motors where it would be (almost) a tooth off, I’d generally find a way to split the difference. The ‘correct’ thing to do is run an adjustable cam gear to get it back to dead on. Have I? No.
Also, are you sure your got the tensioner set right? Sometimes getting the sequence right makes all the difference in the world as far as keeping the timing belt tensioned correctly, so as not to jump teeth- rotate crankshaft counterclockwise until No.1 cylinder is at TDC of compression stroke… loosen timing belt adjuster bolt 180 degrees… rotate crankshaft 3 teeth counterclockwise on camshaft pulley to create tension on timing belt (on opposite side of tensioner, tensioner takes up the slack)… tighten adjuster bolt to whatever spec… check if crank pulley bolt tightened to whatever spec… blah blah blah…
even if your one tooth off, the timing belt wouldn’t slip off. people have had the timing belt skip a tooth and the timing belt stays on. Granted, the engine is usually destroyedm or at the very least valves are broken/bent.
yea I think I just did it wrong.
I had the head measured and bought the correct thickness head gasket andcall that crap. I’m 100% sure its my own error.
Just to make sure. I want the cam and crank pulpy to be set BEFORE I pull the slack out by rotating it right?
blue- by “off” I meant off timing. Not off the cam or anything.
well, when you’re turning the crank the three teeth on the cam, the belt is ‘tight’ from the cam-to-crank, all you’re doing then is making ‘slack’ on the trailing side of the assembly, so that the tensioner will take up any of that slack. So yeah, line them up before you get the slack out, but you shouldn’t be changing the cam/crank timing when you turn it to get any slack over to the tensioner side of the assembly.
wow one tooth off and your bending valves in those honda motors? thats a damn close tolerance.
unfortunately, yea, thats the case most of the time…
I figured out my problem and it actually wasn’t the timing belt. For some reason my #1 pwire goes top left on the dizzy rather than bottom left like all other Honda motors. I wonder how the hell it started before. Anyway. The car started an eventually idled its still rather finiky. I’ll have to figure out the problem next time I’m home (march)
glad to see you got the problem fixed, and I was absolutely zero help to you ! lol
at least there wasn’t any damage
Yea now i just have to figure out why its still having a hard time starting and why its still running rough. I dont really know where to start trouble shooting.
okay, i know a limited amount about these motors, but a few places to start maybe…
what type of rough run is it? like “missing,” or just running “hard?”
-can you advance/ retard the timing by spinning the distributor?
i would check all the easy and dumb things first: vac. leaks, moisture in the distributor cap, check the plugs, maybe they got a little saturated during all the attempted starts. hmm… is there a crank or cam pos. sensor? maybe its a little dirty?
i’d be willing to be that this is ignition or fuel related though. again, i have limited knowledge of honda motors, just throwing a few ideas out there hoping you can come up with something. :headbang
Its running hard, having a tough time keeping itself going.
I did adjust the dizzy a little bit to get it to sound a little better but since I only got it to idle on its own once I couldnt play with it too much.
Plugs have been getting saturated which is causing it to not start sometimes.
Thats all I have so far.
hmm… getting soaked in fuel, to me can mean a few things:
1.) there is excess fuel being pumped in- leaky injectors, leaky cold start valve maybe.
2.) the spark is weak and isn’t igniting the mixture as well as it should be.
i’d make sure your ignition timing is set exactly where it should be first. seems like its either feeding it too much fuel or the combustion is just weak. unless you have a big ass vac. leak and its causing the mixture to go way rich, and dump more fuel.
where do you live? if i get some spare time i’d try and help you diag. it.
Im back in rochester for school for the next 8 weeks :sad home is clifton park though.