true, and proven threefold at the one lap this year. even when “off” the PCM will not yaw and wheel slippage readings and if it gets too off kilt(aka like it would out on track) it steps in and stills takes control. Has to be coded out of the PCM to be shut off permanently. Stephen was having issues with his during the first few evens, before his motor went up in flames at CMP 
…and unless you’re the Stig why would you want to turn off the sytems, the ACD, S-AWC, ASC, ABS & AYC working in conjunction can make a mediocre driver much much better than he or she actually is.
Ern don’t be too concerned with your times for a few reasons. The car is damn heavy, the last time you were at the track you were boggin down on launch, the car is pig rich from the factory and even with your mods you NEED a tune not only for power but for the safety of your vehicle. Finally you didn’t buy a straight line car. Yes with a tune and some added power you can acheive some nice times but our cars shine in the twisties. Yeah you’ll get owned in a straight line but when you get into a sweeping highway interchange the car is tough to beat.
This is exactly why I went with this instead of an STi 
lolololzz
Plus I think they look better.
My question has been this: Why, if the car so desperately needs a tune, for engine life and revving safety blah blah blah, is the EOM tune so damn poor? I understand that if the car is super rich it cant grenade for being lean, but…?
I can’t answer why Mitsubishi made the 2008 car so damn rich from the factory but i can tell you that they did fix the issue. I’ve been hearing that the 2010-11 X’s have a much better tune resulting in a better 0-60 time. Stock the 2008’s will do 0-60 n 4.9 where as they 2010-11’s will do it in 4.3. Now that’s a much better tune.
Maybe corporate figured the tuners were going to mess with the car anyway so didn’t put much R&D into the 2008 tune and thus we got what we got. However, with the economy and people just plain being afraid of voiding their warranty maybe there just wasn’t as many people as they thought buying aftermarket goods? Who know, your guess is as good as mine.
With the mods you have the risk of “grenading” your car is on the low side but every time you drag or launch it the risk increases. A tune should be done not only for safety but it’s the best mod you can do for power. Also get that wideband installed so you can keep an eye on your AFR’s.
you’re not going to seriously hurt it running it rich, it’s just stupid not to take advantage of the large potential for power held in a tune. I think that’s why everyone is saying you need it
I’m very aware of the necessity. I didnt want to tune the car, put parts on it, then tune it again lol waste of moneyz in my eyes. I bout the intake, turboback, and now I need the intercooler piping (which I should have within the month) then the tune is the VERY next thing to get. That way, all my mods will be accounted for in the tune and I’m hoping, after reading dynos of other cars, somewhere in the 310whp range…a larger intercooler would bring me further but thats why I bought the Ntercooler instead. Not as effective, but far less expensive.
Speaking of which (and dont facepalm to this, please, either answer the question or dont reply): Once I’m tuned, will the Ntercooler change things on the tune? I wont be using it too much so the open source tune will be for without it, but will it affect the fuel mapping, etc, when it is on? Or will the air just be colder and denser and not made up for by the fuel?
Ultimately you should get all your basic bolt-ons installed before you get tuned. With that being said the intercooler will not affect your tune unless you tune crazy aggressive.
Also an intercooler is not really necessary on the stock turbo and isn’t worth changing unless you live in a warm state which 9 months out of the year you don’t. Remember intercoolers don’t really add power they prevent power loss when the car is running hot (i.e. track).
Right. Got it.
you sir have some of the worst logic i have ever seen…
They have proven horsepower gains on dynos across the world over hundreds ove vehicles. From 9whp to 50whp. I dont expect large gains, but every lil bit helps.
Back to what I said orginally, I’m not trying to get huge gains out of this car. If I want 400+whp I need to upgrade the turbo. THAT is when an upgraded intercooler is more effective. I would also need biger injectors, twin fuel pumps and preferrably a larger bore fuel rail with an adjustable FPR. You’re talking THOUSANDS of dollars. The stock IC is large enough to hold the stock turbo at increased boost. Thus no need to upgrade if I’m not changing the turbo setup
soldddddddddddddd
REPOOOOOOOOOOOED
With your mods + 1000cc injectors, fuel pump and an E85 tune you can get very close to 400hp.
You shut up right now. You will never know more than Joe Shmoe that came in to Napa last week to buy octane booster and a glasspack.
AhahahahahH
rofl:bowdown
Intercooler is defiantly helpful stock turbo , my buddy made 360whp, on e85 @ 30psi stock turbo.
Bwags on here
Erngotti, why don’t you sell the Ntercooler and put that money towards a tune?
what the fuck is this ntercooler lol
Hey don’t say that