you may or may not see a huge jump in peak numbers but im sure area under the curve will be vastly improved and overall driveability will be much better as well.
i told you that guy was a retard
262
do you tune LSJ motors?
using HP tuners?
I have tunercats to tune lt stuff with. A datalogger is reall the main issue. That and interfacing a wb is next to impossible
There is a lot left on the table. Also you are very correct under the curve gains and driveability will gain HUGE amounts. I would like to say too peak numbers should increase. I have a 6speed gto here that with a 235/240 cam, CAI and full exhaust did 440whp
I have done a few lsj’s. I dont really advertise since I only do like 1/10 of them as I do the ls stuff. Kinda like the new cobalts as well.
im sure his actual peak numbers would fluctuate depending on the dyno he was on. some read high/low, etc… (you get my point). im just anxious to see the gains in comparison pre/post tune. if you are able to secure dyno time when you come up id love to see a pull on his current tune, then compare it to the final tune from you… should be very telling assuming none of the off WOT fueling/timing/maf scaling was touched supposedly.
We are going to have to take his current dyno numbers and work from there unless I get him on an load/eddy current dyno. Then I would be more than willing to do a rip as-is then completely tune it on the dyno and show the final numbers. Even so for his car I would like to get some street miles on it so we arent paying for hours on hours of dyno time.
We will figure something out to make a comparision
^Contact Howard @ RLMS and see if he would be willing to rent you the dyno. IDK if he would but as you know you NEED a dyno, you cant tune on the street at 150 mph w/o serious cop hassle plus idk about everyone else but i like to see a ###.
^This
Seeing numbers I can understand for sure. I am looking into getting a dyno somewhere along the line while I am out there.
I am also use to the country roads and highways around here. Normally I only habe breif bursts to 100mph normally all under 80. Once Im done tuning then hey go hit 150+ by all means but I dont need to see it.
Still got time to get all the details worked out
So…your dialing the car on the street with bursts to 100 mph and then your going to drive your customers cars to 150 mph? Sounds like an incident waiting to happen.
Once Im “done” tuning then “hey go hit 150+ by all means but I dont need to see it”.
he said once hes done tuning the car, go to 150 on your own time…
i’ll still take a DYNO tune over a “country road” tune! Seen plenty of tuning getting done and doing it right involves the right equipment and quite a bit of time. Its literally impossible to keep an engine at steady state on the street to properly dial in the MAF curve and the VE tables. By the time you do it right you are looking at min. of 3-4 hours per car. Most reputable shops will dial in most of the tune in this manner and then fine tune transition stuff on the street and check for drivability things. As I have been told if you get the MAF/VE stuff nailed you will be in good shape with all the other adjustments.
A dyno tune dials the car in for max power & optimum WOT performance. Street tuning, or “country road tuning”, makes the car a lot more smoother/driveable for everyday street driving. In other words, street tuning is good for fine tuning a car all around. A lot of people will get their car dyno tuned and then take it out for a street tune to fine tune the mid-range and low end/normal driving parameters.
My car felt a ton better after my street tune later in the year, made it MUCH smoother and improved the drivability a ton.
Deja vu.
aahhhhh, im well aware of “street tuning” obviously! All cars that come in the shop start off on the dyno then Howard takes the car on the street and dials in everything. There is a hell of a difference in starting on a dyno and finishing on the street as opposed to starting/finishing on a “country road”
i know a guy with a turbo justy who street tuned it and put it right on the dyno and first pull was 265. after tuning it on the dyno he finished off with 279hp. so the fine tuning netted him an additional 14hp. quite a solid street tune if you will.
I would rather have a street tune then a dyno tune any day. Sure, a dyno tune is great for WOT AFR tuning and what not, but its still NOT touching any tuning as far as street driving goes. Factors on the street depend on a great tune much more then a few WOT pulls on a dyno. Actually stop and go driving, cruising, outside temps etc. all play a huge roll on a great street tune…
for example, idle surge or “cam surge” is hardly noticeable on the dyno compared to street driving…
a dyno is good for AFR tweaking…not daily driving.
exactly and my car is a perfect example for this as even the OP said. My car is dialed in WOT which was done on a dyno and drives great WOT, but daily street driving, it sucks.
who the fuck said anything about JUST a dyno tune??? street tuning is 50% of the job, you start on a dyno, clean up on the street, very simple. 50/50 dyno/ street. Make me a list of all the big name tuners in the country that dont have dynos. Hennessey? Lingenfelter? Underground racing? Vette Drs? Synapse??? Next level??
I guess none of you understand the concept of tuning which involves “re-mapping” of the engines new airflow characteristics. WOT is the easiest thing to tune. Its the cruise and part throttle stuff that takes the most time. You really need a dyno that has a load control to stablize the engine so each cell can be adjusted. If this is done correctly the car should run like a dream and there is a lot of shit that doesn’t need to be touched. I’ve seen some of Howards friends that flew in from GM to gang up on some weird projects and saw the kind of stuff they where doing. Trust me…the guys who calibrate for GM… I’m sure they now what they are doing.
Hung out with one of them at PRI…these guys are into it heavy!
^ Still waiting on that list, i thought in 12 hours you guys would have had enough time to TRY to prove me wrong…