Finally going to do it, me thinks...

Shift518 Automotive
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So, after spending the week in FL and spending a bunch of time on a wimpy 50cc scooter…I am hooked on the idea of a bike. I have always been a fan of sports bikes (and lately been getting more into bobber type looking bikes or whatever you call em) but never trusted myself as I feel a lot of bikes are WAY too powerful.

I’ve posted about the Ninja 250 in the past…and am seriously considering it now. I’m 5’11" and 205lbs so I shouldn’t look too big on it.

That being said…first order of business is getting my permit and then my license via that HVCC BRC course, etc.

I probably won’t get the actual bike anytime soon but I am finally going to get the ball rolling on doing something I have wanted to do for a very very long time.

I don’t think I’ll ever get off the 250…as I just want to cruise around, commute to work in the summer and enjoy it instead of riding a death trap that does insane speeds (knowing myself, I’ll push the envelope speed wise). If I do upgrade someday…it’ll likely be something like the new 300.

So, I have some questions:

  • What are good helmet brands? What is considered a good price?
  • What are good brands of other clothing/accessories?
  • What is considered low/high miles for a bike like a Ninja 250/300?
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ur gonna die.

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Get a 300 I hear good things, buy used if you can.

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What are good helmet brands? What is considered a good price? Honestly if it is DOT and SNELL rated its a good helmet, you don’t need to pay for the name like SHOEI or Arai. An HJC for around $60-$100 will do just fine, might have some wind noise when on a highway but nothing that isn’t tolerable.

What are good brands of other clothing/accessories? Most clothing accessories you will get mixed opinions. Gloves are the hardest to decided on usually as some are more durable than others, you will have to shop around to see what you like, you want to make sure whatever you wear, gloves, jackets etc. fit properly and you have good movement still.

What is considered low/high miles for a bike like a Ninja 250/300? This depends on who you ask, most people (especially in NY) consider anything over 25k “high” mileage on a bike. Which is absolutely ridiculous. Especially being a beginner bike mileage should not be your main concern, find something used that you can learn on and if you drop it you wont give two shits if it gets scratched. I rather find a bike with more mileage then some bike that is 10 years old and only has 8k on it, that would worry me that the bike hasn’t been ridden and/or maintained.

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Being that the 300 is a bit newer…the price will likely be higher. Is it worth the increase in price?

Thank you sir. I appreciate the input.

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Good helmet brands:

Top Line: Shoei, Suomy, Arai, Bell, AGV,

Middle line: Icon, Shark, Scorpion, Joe Rocket, KBC, many others

Cheap: HJC, O’Neal and many others

http://www.helmetcity.com/page/HC/CTGY/helmetbrand

They are all “good” and they are all “safe” as most pass the same safety standards. Classic saying is if both Kia and a new Mercedes have the same crash safety rating… which one would you still rather crash in?

On the other side, most of the time a helmet will e doing other jobs other than crashing, it will be cutting the air and taking your head with it - design factor, it will be cutting wind noise down - R&D that goes into the helmet, comfort level for the thousands of miles you will be wearing this thing over time and last but certainly not least is colors/graphics. All of these factors affect the price. (also little things like visor removal systems, visor options, strap design, weight, cooling comfort etc)

I’ve had a number of helmets through the years and my favorite still has to be my Shoei. Out of my all my icons, none are terrible but each over time get annoying, random rattle in one, shield molding coming apart in the other… etc. I haven’t worn my Shoei in a few years (too old and beat up by now). Do I miss it? Yeah. Do I want to spend another $400 on one? No, not yet.

Think of it as buying a TV. A 20in cathodray tube Walmart brand TV will show you the same show as a 60in LED Sony, but we all know the effect won’t be the same. You would much rather spend the money if you have it and get a nicer bigger model.

Cloth

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Thanks man. I’ll look into all those brands and see what works.

I definitely agree with the last part. Some times I take my car up in to the woods/back roads just to get some nice cruising in with little to no traffic with the windows down, etc.

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I disagree I’ve had a cheap helmet before I’d never wear one again. With motorcycle gear you get what you pay for. Arai & Shoei are legit helmets.
I will say the New HJC RSPA 10 is fairly priced with rave reviews.
That is the only cheaper helmet I’d consider buying.
Just my 2 cents

Gloves I’d recommend Held, RS Tai chi, Dianese, sidi, knox ect…

Insider tip Ballistik racing is letting Agg offer their glove line and I hear good things! I might buy a set myself.

http://aggracing.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=80

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Agreed A motorcycle will be crashed, destroyed or left to rot long before the engine go’s out. I know a guy that owns a honda it’s got over 500k on it, he’s been all over the country with that thing & track.

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Fit is extremely important across the board in all motorcycle gear. Certain brands will have a better fit with others. If you feel more comfortable and your head fits better in an Icon than a Shoei, go with a Icon. It should be snug when new with no play once it’s on your head. Your cheeks should feel some pressure, but nothing uncomfortable. Over time foam will loosen and fit your head better.

Same goes for jackets and gloves. Leather should be very snug and form fitting to you. Textile is more like a casual jacket and feels more ‘normal’ when you wear it.

I personally prefer full gauntlet style gloves (they are longer). The theory behind them is that the cuff doesn’t let your jacket ride up when you’re sliding exposing your skin.

Gear is your friend. From my most recent ordeal on the motorcycle the only part of me that was hurt from ~40mph is the only part that wasn’t properly protected - my legs. Everything else is without a scratch as I was covered head to toe and head my Sidi
boots on.

Best thing you can do is start going around shops and trying things on. Griffins, Semours, Ronnies, and the one place on Albany Shaker. Nobody will mind you doing so and you can get an idea of what you like. Also get as many opinions and advice from as many people as possible. We all think we are right in our choices but that doesn’t mean you have to agree with what I or anybody else says. Come to your own conclusions.

When/if you stop in Ronnies shoot the shit with Azn Jim behind the counter.

Feel free to ask any questions here, the bike section on Shift is usually quite civil and educated. Just about everybody here is a seasoned rider and knows what they are talking about.

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Missed this comment. Will +rep.

As far as I’m concerned there is no such things as high miles on a bike. My DRZ has ~30K, SV #1 around 60K, SV #2 is right around 38K right now. No problems with the motors on any of them.

Bikes always get crashed and scrapped before motor is an issue and bikes with 100+k miles are common on many forums where owners just like to ride. Typical rider puts less than 2000 miles a year on their bike and 10 year old bikes are “relics” in a super sport world at least and are undesired. They get raced/stunted/scrapped or just stay unridden.

Maintenance is by far a bigger factor on the bike, which is directly tied into another major variable - the owner. Any owner that respects the machine and maintains it, is unlikely to treat it like dirt while riding it, but bikes can take A LOT of abuse and still be fine. Just ask any stunter.

Major things to look for:
Scratches on fairings - almost EVERY bike has been down at certain point in time. Most of the time it’s at no speed just falling over due to a million variables.
Scratches on frame - could be serious issues
Chain health - whether tension is right, if it’s lubed, if it’s rusty etc.
Tires - dry rotted? Did the owner use the whole tire or only commuted in straight lines? Good brand?
Was the bike left in the rain/snow outside for its life or was stored and covered inside?

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My maintenance is ridiculous. My dad always taught me, “You take care of it, it’ll take care of you.” That’s why my car, at 108kmi, still looks and drives like it’s got 50kmi on it.

Thanks for the posts guys, keep them coming.

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[ame=“http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2YIOxOaaVPE”]Superbike School - Episode 1 - YouTube[/ame]

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[ame=“http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVWNinsmkAw”]Twist of the Wrist II - YouTube[/ame]

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If you really intended to do the BRC, should sign up asap. I am just gonna add wear proper gear, try to leave the “push the envelope” part for the track.

Unless you are getting 300 used, in that price range I would also look into kawi 650 or sv650 for about the same price range if not lower.

Enjoy & ride well.

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get a 600 and dont flip the throttle like an asshole… 250s suck unless there on/off road worthy

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you’re going to need to learn self control more then anything. I’d get a nice used 600 if I was you Ilya. Be responsible on it, It’s easy to putt putt around on a 600 lol.

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Super sport bikes to commute on make as much sense as Harley’s to track on.

If you want to do street duty, don’t buy a track bike.

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This^

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I’m not getting a 600 lol. Just not happening.

I am only looking at used Ninja 250/300’s when I’m ready. Before that, I need to get my permit and license.

Thanks for those videos Gun.