Im going with a false peak torque number due to converter flash as well.
So those torque numbers are not accurate then?
nope i would say not
thats good if thats not accurate torque then my tranny will last longer lol
man i don’t know shit about cobalts but the things that always fail first in GPs are the final drive chain, input shaft, differential and stay outta overdrive under load
torque is a killer, keep off slicks and you’ll last longer, your stock radials are like torque fuses
thanks for the heads up. I dont think i’ll be running slicks anytime soon since i race my car only how i drive it everyday. I would like to increase the hp without increasing the torque but im not sure that can be done.
I have to agree w/sk360 on this one…
The converter may be affecting the torque curve but something doesn’t seem right…
Can we get some more info on how/what you are tuning with?
timing does a good job at that
I have an FMU with a return fuel system setup and 60# injectors. I have a pull thru mafs setup. 3 inch DP with 3 inch highflow cat, then a 2.5 inch catback. NGK Copper plugs 1 step colder. Recirc BOV. I have the wastegate rod turned all the way and the most it will give is 11psi. Im told that if i threw a boost controller on I could get more boost but I still dont understand that concept since with the wastegate fully turned on the gt2860rs there should be no boost being held back. Car has been fully checked over for boost leaks as well and there are none.
What FMU are you using (ie. 12:1, 10:1, 8:1 etc.)? Are you monitoring the MAF voltage at boost and is it pegged or close to being pegged? None of these would affect making more boost but can have an affect on your a/f . It’s hard to read your printout but if I’m reading it correctly it looks like your mixture goes extremely rich at around 5300 (if I’m reading the min/max/avg correctly it actually goes negative). I would consider investigating if you are using the correct ratio FMU, you may be creating too much fuel pressure under boost causing the rich condition. As a previous poster mentioned, this could cause some serious issues by dumping too much fuel into the cylinders, washing oil off the walls, causing premature ring failure etc. etc.
On the other hand, you say it’s running better than ever and that’s a good thing!
this is my baseline kit:
http://www.turbosystem.com/ProjectVehicles/New_Folder/Cobalt/Cobalt%2024L%20Page.htm
All i know is its a unit that changes the fuel pressure via turning a little knob and it allows for a return fuel system. I dont know the ratio of it.
I’ve never tuned an ECOTEC system so I’d be speaking out of ignorance if I were to give you any specific advice. I would recommend that you contact Hahn Racecraft, send them a copy of your dyno graph and ask them specifically about the AFR, particularly at 5300+ rpm. Ask them if this is a correct chart for their BoostFueler system. It just doesn’t seem right. And please PM me or post up here what you are able to determine.
Thanks
yeah, ive been looking for someone thats good with hp tuners and ecotec engines to give me a nice solid tune since im sure the car has more in it. When i can afford more dyno time and a boost controller and paying someone to tune with hp tuners then i plan to get to my 300+whp goal.
Anyone else notice that 12:1 is PEAK afr…it says average afr is 9:1.
I should be able to set you up with a tune using HPTuners. A good friend has been tuning Predator Performance’s Cadillac STS on HPTuners and rents time on our dyno. Give me a ring or PM when you’re ready.
good results. nice color on the pipes
There is something to be said for it being done.
you would probably make closer to 300 on a dyno jet. doesn’t matter though, it still lots of power. get your top end fueling figured out.