.
If you think that welding a piece of cheap metal over that rust will fix your problem - think again!
The driver side framerail in our cars are rotten from the inside and the main reason that the driver side goes first is the brake fluid leaking from old BMC. Brake fluid eats the paint very quickly and exposed to Canadian elements bare metal have no chance to last.
Now:
- the sheet metal that car manufacturers use is not the same one that you can buy at your hardware store, but its stronger, lighter and more resistant to rust
- the shape of the rails is also no accident, it works together with the rest of the unibody parts to form strong shell.
That is very short summary or why patching rail holes and rust make sense only to those who want to temporary hide “the cancer” and sell the car quickly.
I believe you are not one of them.
Also for sale or trade:
- Q45-90mm-MONSTER-MAF-upgrade- http://www.-Q45-90mm-MONSTER-MAF-upgrade[/]
- Auto to manual swap parts - http://www.son240sx.org/Auto-to-manual-swap-parts[/]
- 240sx computer-ECU - http://http://www.son240sx.org/-240sx-ECU-computer[/]
- Coolant-Overflow-Tank-for-Nissan-S13 - http://www.son240sx.org/-Coolant Overflow Tank-[/]
- Work RS Type Lug Nuts- http://www.son240sx.org/-Work-RS-Type-Lug-Nuts-[/*]
Cheers
It is a good deal for those who want to keep and drive their cars.
Just to get a few of your facts straight. the drivers side rails rust faster because of heat from the exhaust expands and contracts the steel causing the paint to form microscopic cracks over time. the other reason is their are two peaces of steel sandwedged together on the inside of the frame rail. this is a lift point for the car. The draw back to it is it allows water to collect between the two pieces of steel and rust very quickly. the more rust then will soak up this water trapping even more water and causing even more rust.
frame rail patches will work for about 4-6 years before showing outward signs of rust if they are simply placed directly over the rust. if the old rust is cut out patches can last as long as these new rails if not longer depending on design and if treated correctly on the inside. these can last well over 6 years. Your problem is the welds for both these rails and patches. the welds are the unprotected section of the rail as their is no way to clean and protect the welds from the inside of the rail.
that said new rails are always better then a quick fix but it comes down to personal preference. GLWS
Thank you for adding heat to expand my short summary.
Heat is not a main reason (there are many other spots where exhaust is almost touching the body, ex.firewall) but yes it contribute to metal rusting quicker.
As you also mention OEM framerail is actually made from multiple pieces sandwiched together which make it much stronger(where it need to bee) than one thicker piece of sheet metal. Many other body parts are made the same way and don’t rust as easily.
I had four 240sx cars and all of them had the same problem. My friend mechanic patched two of them and did very good job including priming and painting with POR15 - it does not last a year. After couple of months of winter driving you could see the rust again.
You cannot even compare OEM rails to the one that you make as its impossible to make it right with your resources.
If your patch is to stiff, the rest of the frame will bend around the welds and if it’s too weak then the patch itself will bend. Any time after that when you drive hard or hit the pathole your car unibody will twist/bend and stay that way.
There is no paint available to us to protect that sheet metal either as its not made for that purpose.
Still don’t believe me? - make a washer made from the same metal, paint it with POR15 or whatever you choose and mount it there. Check it out in spring.
if the frame bends around the rail patches you have bigger problems. You cant state what i can or can not do with frame rails and how they compare to a new one as you have never purchased one, for all you know they could be stronger hell they could be made of pink unicorn horns. My rails are just for people looking for a quick easy and cheep fix that will be as strong as stock. if you want a show car or a clean job or you would have doubts about patches I honestly steer people in your direction. Cos at the end of the day stock is stock.
The sandwiching of steel in these cars are absolutely 100% the biggest problem to the car factor that and how low these rails are and how often water, salt, and dirt can enter and how badly these cars were prepped in original production… yeah it says it all. I have spent many many years fixing rust on many different cars and the 240 as soon as you have sheet steel that are sandwiched together with a bad paint job in a lot of cases you will find that rust starts from these places.
It works like this on a flat peace of sheet steel rust will form for sure… The difference is in how quickly the water or moisture can dry. When the surface is open to moving air like on a flat surface of steel it will dry faster then water that is able to penetrate between two pieces of steel. you can try this experiment at home. take 3 plates wash all 3 so they are wet set two on a table and cover one with the third plate. next day go back and look the one plate that’s covered is still wet and the open plate is dry. what dose steel need to rust oxygen and water.
A good prep job before installing any laminated steel is very impotent for this reason. Just make sure that water is not able to get under the lamination at all and this will help drastically. Strong sealers and good surface prepping work wonders this also goes for the next guy to install your rails. just cos its OEM doesn’t mean they care if your car lasts.
Looks like the piece you have for sale wouldn’t even entirely cover this hole.
The longer you wait the bigger it will get, rust spreads very quickly.
Fix your frame as soon as you can and oil spray all weak spots every time you have a chance to get under your car.
The most important advice: DON’T DRIVE IN WINTER
I rustproof my car every year and use Krown in aerosol every time I change oil or work on my car to keep it rust free.
There no reason to argue as most of us will have no choice but to patch their holes. Good welder who also know 240sx and is willing to spend time doing good job is our best friend anyway.
There is only few of these rails in North America and pretty soon there will be none.
Trade for:
-Tomei Poncams or JWT s3 cams for red top
-Tomei, Hks or Nismo 740 injectors
-aftermarket intake manifold (Greddy, etc.)
-aftermarket oil pan (Greddy, etc.)
-ARP head bolts
-Cosworth or Apexi headgasket
-s14 sr20det oil pickup
-s14 sr20det water neck or waterneck sandwitch adapter
-high flow cat (3"+ I.D.)
-BOV
-Wastegate (external)
-hubcentric spacers
-CF vented hood
-Work Rezax 1 center caps
-40-holes, 18"x3+" Work lips
-36-holes, 17"x3+" Work lips
-any 3-piece rims
-19" stepped, 40-holes barrels and lips
-intercooler or good quality core
-180sx typeX Kouki tilights set (new condition only)
-z32 rear coilovers
etc.
lmk what you have - I will add cash if necessary
your car is as strong as it weakest spot
lmk what you have for trade
I believe it fits all 240sx
Save your car - now is perfect time to fix it
Is the frame rail still available? Where ar you located?
