Frame rot

SON240sx Automotive
1

Hey guys/gals,

I was staring my Auto-5spd swap today and decided to check out my frame. I found that part of my frame is toast! Just under where your feet go my frame is all rotted. (both sides and about 3-6" long 1-2" in width)

I’ve already welded a new frame cover to go on top of the existing rot etc… However I’m thinking of putting some bolts to hold it in place, do you recommend this style of repair as well a mig welding it to the existing frame/floorboard?

I was also thinking of putting a 2-3 carriage bolts on either side from inside the cabin and down through my frame rail and bolt it in place there.

If anyone has had some major frame rot please post what you did to fix it.

2

Just so you know I welded new pieces on the frame, it took longer to scrape off the oil then to actually weld… a few fires and a lot of sticks (i believe it was a MIG… if your going to weld on the frame use about 90-100 as the temp )

3

where’d you get your 5spd parts? :cry: im jealous.

4

yo dude i may know of someone selling his 5spd off his 97

5

few fires and a lot of sticks (i believe it was a MIG…

MIG welding uses wire feed not sticks.

I’ve already welded a new frame cover to go on top of the existing rot etc

Cut out the rot and weld new pieces in otherwise its as good as BONDO

6

there’s nothing wrong with Bondo, you just have to actually know what you’re doing with it.

I’d be awfully careful “cutting away the rot”

Your frame is structural, and depending on how weak it is, you might end up finding your 240 bent in half as you start to cut.

And yeah, you’re using a stick welder, which is an Arc. Fine for frame. Mig is better for body work and “pretty” welds.

I’d hit it with a wire brush, get rid of the scale, then buy some POR-15

it’s a bit pricey, but it works, and works well.

Then weld sleeves over top (like a U with lips, so it welds to the floorpan, rather than the crusty rotten crap).

Putting a few holes and bolts in the ends are a good idea.

Unibody frames flex and move a fair bit under hard acceleration or cornering, and can snap a weld pretty easily.

This is why subframe connectors are a good idea.

The bolts will keep the stress off the weld. Just make sure to get some rubberized underguard into the holes you drill so you don’t have to do it all over again.

7

there’s nothing wrong with Bondo, you just have to actually know what you’re doing with it.

Theres everything wrong with Bondo or a surface patch which has equivilant strength if you use it on the frame.

I’d be awfully careful “cutting away the rot”

Rot is not structural

Your frame is structural, and depending on how weak it is

Unibody frames flex and move a fair bit under hard acceleration or cornering, and can snap a weld pretty easily

Do you see bolts holding the original rails on? :?:

8

if you are welding on your frame tho do it in small sections and in quick spirts. if you go to long you could cause over heating and have the metal flex from the heat.

that is never good.