i went to wyotech and i had denny,mike, and tom. i’m not gonna lie this was my first time i’ve ever built a cage and i want to learn what i can to make it better. i was going to ask where u thought it would be best to go with the two bars comming of of the main hoop. i was thinking about going to the strut tower like you did in that pic but i’ve also seen people go directly to the floor behind the towers. the a pillars i’ve wanted to make out of one bar i just have to wait till i can get some money together for a bender. thanks again
-mike
edit: i plated the dash brace on the top and bottom and mounted the apillar bars there, another thing that needs changed
I just talked to Dennis today. Where do you work now? You should stop by my shop some time.
Having your rear bars pass the suspension load imput is a big no no. First reason, your not bracing a load imput! Second reason, passing that point only put more tubing in the car. Which equals more weight. Thirdly passing the suspension will only reinforce factory crumple zones. Rendering them useless and putting more G’s on your body in a crash.
i actually worked at a ford dealership after school for a while and now i’m back in school at pennstate erie for mechanical engineering. where are you guys located? i’d like to stop by whenever i’m home.
I looked into furthering my education with a mech. eng. degree, but started a shop instead. Now it owns me. My brother and sister graduated from behrand. Bro is electrical eng. and sis in in marketing.
i will for sure. i’ll probably be around this weekend i don’t know when you guys are open but i’ll let you know if i’m going to be home for sure. thanks again for the help
just got my painless chassis harness and 8switch panel. Hoping get get a turbo soon. have been lookng at 35r’s and borgwarner s3xx series extended tip turbos
haha I hear ya dan ive definetly been looking twards something bigger. i plan on doing a build similar to yours with either crower or pauter rods on some 9:1 wiseco’s. saturday nights are gonna get interesting dan haha
Your going full garret? If not get the FP3065… What are your plans as far as performance. you might be able to make it there on a stock valve train with 272’s. That would save some cash. But scratch all that if you plan on bumping up the Rev limiter or going over 24 psi.
wow my sig is the same as the guy above me…I guess I’m a poser.
ya i’m going full garrett. if i wasn going to stay mitsu flanged the 3065 would have been my top choice. i’m probably going to run around 35psi and rev to about 9k
haha thats cool man u coulda left it i wouldn’t mind. i hope it screems though if it doesn’t i’m doing something wrong. It probably wont’ be out this summer though as i’m in college but i’m hoping to have the engine assembled. we;ll see how it goes
Take your time and do it right. It sounds like you are. I took 2 years to do mine and it’s very solid. With the exception of that damn crank seal leaking again. I must not do them right.
Take a look for some used parts that you can’t get burned on. For example I got my RSR exhaust for half the price because a guy had it on his car for 1 summer. No problems. If you need any parts I have a 2G parts car around (you could use things like the brakes) and Always have 1G engine parts because of my 6-bolt swap. I can hook you up as long as you scratch my back at some point. If you want a list of stuff PM me.
:burnout:
lookin good brother haha you need to tell steve to put that goddamn meatstang in the snow where it belongs and reclaim a garage spot!