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accessport wont read psi over 18.43… anything above that is a guesstimate


Online Cobb (the make of the Acessport) shows you what the different maps put out on a dyno.
Here is the one they have for my car.


i wouldnt be the one doin that, i’d blow up my car


Stay away from cobb’s access port that stuffs junk dealt with it twice and both where huge fails on cobbs part. Talk to justin (Celtic) or Seth at Moon Performance. AP is such a waste for what its worth.


Lemmiwinks is also tuning software for VAG cars if memory serves correctly.

On APv2, it has a guesstimate dyno programmed into it. Is it accurate? I doubt it.

cazwrx- Depends on the dyno on what you’d put down for power. Take it to Moon to see what it can do.

-Cossey on Justin’s name.



  • Nicole on n!cole’s name.


The Moon Performance Dyno Day is coming up on July 27th. You should go for a baseline run on your AP base map or whatever is currently set to make the car run. After the fact…get a road tune done (usually good for about a 10% increase over an off-the-shelf Cobb AP map from my experiences) and then go back to the same dyno. This will give you the best before/after results as you are limiting the # of revolving factors. If I had to guess (which I hate to) on a 2.0L w/ the OE turbo you’ll be somewhere in the 200/200 vacinity for WHP and WTQ on the Moon MD dyno. For reference, my stock 06 STI made 230/235 whp/wtq on the same dyno.

LW is indeed a software tuning tool for VAG cars. If you want the 2.7 tuned - talk to Tony @ EPL. It’ll cost a little more than an OTS APR/Revo/GIAC/ect map but is well worth the money for a full custom tune dedicated to your car with your mods.


+1 Tony at EPL is the man to go to


I know this. My AP was traded off about a month ago. :banana

The AP is already gone so I can’t get a baseline. I was also hoping to have everything installed and have a road tune by the 27th. If it’s not done I don’t see the point of going. I’m just waiting on a few pm’s to figure out when I can get the car roadtuned. :cool


I have a 2006 Gmc Canyon, z71, 4wd with the 3.5 5 cyl. I’ve seen people on the truck forums have their stock trucks tuned with HP TUNER and say its the greatest thing in the world. Please keep in mind that i don’t tow, race, offroad, or anything other than drive to work everyday with this thing. Now my question is, once a tuner uses the HP TUNER on my truck would i be able to use the same tune all year round even with the very cold winters that we have here?? i obviously don’t know anything about tuning. Would this even be a worth while mod to do to a non-diesel pick-up? i know with a diesel you can make serious power out of a tune but never really hear about a tune on a gas truck yielding good gains. thanks in advance and good topic BTW.



Thread cleaned and stickied. Please guys, keep the bs to a minimum. This is not OT, and this thread has the potential to be something we can all use in the future. Thank you in advance.


I have a 1999 Subaru 2.5RS with a built SOHC NA motor, i.e., 11.2/1 compression pistons, high lift cams etc. I currently run the stock ECU and while the gains I have experienced through the mechanical changes have been plentiful I can’t help but thinking I would benefit greatly with some form of tunable engine management. I’ve done some research into this and would like to steer clear of a full stand alone unit such a Link Plus and such systems, if possible. I’ve spoken with Subaru tuners such as I-speed and have come up short as the ones I’ve contacted do not provide maps for a setup such as mine. I’m not looking for massive dyno gains; I’m not the kind of guy that gives a shit about such matters, just a refinement of my AFR and some timing changes for better drivability in autocross/back road type conditions. My question is; to get me started in this area what pigyback/reflash setups would you recommend?


In your case I would not recommend a full stand-alone EMS, especially if you want to drive your car daily on our roads in NY as stand-alone will not pass any new New York state inspection. There are several “piggy-back” options for your vehicle that would allow for some simple timing and afr adjustments but I would recommend the GReddy eManage (or Ultimate version, depending on how far you want to take the tune). It is an affordable solution to your problem and is very easy to operate. There are a few people on here who have a lot of experience with this system and will swear by it. I recommend talking to the gentlemen at ECS in Mass. (East Coast Swappers) as they have a TON of experience in the older Impreza field. If you take a few minutes of your day and get them on the phone I’m sure they can point you in a more precise direction. I believe they will have a similar opinion but can not say for sure and it’s always best to talk to an establishment that is rich in experience in your particular field. I hope this helps.


Donnie, HP Tuner is indeed the industries leading software for tuning several domestic vehicles and can make a world of difference in your vehicles performance. To answer your question though, no, you do not sound like a candidate for this software/tuning upgrade. If you are not worried about your vehicles performance then there would be minimal gains for you to do this. For instance the initial cost of the “credits” for HP Tuners is ~$150. On top of that, most credible individuals are going to want ~$400+ to take the time to tune the vehicle for you. You would see slight fuel mileage increases if that was your goal, but it would take you probably 30-40,000 miles worth of driving to save the money that you initially laid out for the tune/software. If you’re looking for a little bit better gas mileage in your daily commute I’d recommend changing the air filter in your trunk to a K&N or something similar. A simple drop-in filter upgrade is all you need, nothing extravagant. By outlaying a few dollars on this you can see a 1-2+mpg gain which will pay for itself much more rapidly as the up front cost is much lower.

On a side note - our climate does have an effect on any tune as the weather changes. However, forced induction cars (especially turbocharged vehicles) see greater effects with weather/air density changes than do naturally aspirated vehicles. This is why it’s important to have a good monitor system in place in your vehicle if you modify/tune to ensure safety and optimum operating conditions for your vehicle.


Any experience in megasquirt?


Yes. Man, that was an easy question :banana


Thanks for the suggestion, hadn’t considered Greddy. I’ll have to check into specific applications on the emanage and give those guys a call.


Happy to help. Let us know if there are any other ?'s along the way :nod


How do you decide what to use in the cranking /Priming PW table?

*EDIT. I ask since I was told to use around 6. And I had some random values in there, I have no idea where they came from.


thanks for answering my questions honestly, most would say “hell yeah get it tuned, you’ll love it”. i’m going to look into the K&N. thanks again