like YOUR cock maybe. some of us dont need those lil blue pills :lol
i have to kids id rather jerk off than fuck ,and with what you been fuckin ya prolly on the blue pill to, to get it up.now back on sublect vlad its most likely a heater core pluggin up not a real big deal to fix,unplug and do a coolant flush on it
Is that something that Firestones flush should have taken care of if done properly?
Let the car idle and see how the heat is, then take it up to like 2500rpm and hold it there, see if the heat starts blowing hot. If it does theres obviously a block somewhere. This could be a clogged heater core or the door blend is stuck partially open like everyone has said. Take the core hoses off and stick a pressure washer in there.
My contribution to this post is I just wanted to say I will never go to Firestone again. My experience is they don’t even know how to assess where a leak is and do simple tire repair.
yea FUCK firestone they cant do shit right… they charged me 150 bucks on my 84 GP to “Fix” the ebrake so they could inspect it but they just wanted money cause they didnt fix SHIT. that was like 4 years ago but still fuck firestone
firstone techs cant even wipe there ass right let alone fix a car all places like that are a joke i cant tell ya how many cars i see that places like that fucked up,but to answer your question it may have caused it if they flushed it and didnt do it right
Sounds kinda like the issue I was having with my heat. The first time it was due to a leaking hose and two thermostats, a hose and a flush later the heat seems to work ok.
say it paul ,who is your daddy, i called it didnt i :lol
Well it worked fine for a month and then two weeks ago it didnt work in the middle of a snow storm and I put in a thermostat and still couldnt get heat after running it for two hours but by the time I got to Midas it had heat but I had it flushed anyway.
well vlad ya get it looked at yet???
Well this only keeps getting better.
Last night I came to find out that I’m low on coolant, in the over flow and in general and find coolant traces all over the surrounding area of the reservoir and the radiator cap. I assume that’s what helped me blow a headlight right under there as well.
My reservoir is filthy with gunk as well, I presumed that should have been taken care off during the flush.
Well I added more coolant, put the old radiator cap on and started to drive home from work an hour ago just to find out that I’m not blowing hot air while the engine as at the operating temp. I figure my thermostat is gone but I keep driving.
A mile down the road my engine temp is at max and I pull over to see what’s going on.
Everything seemed legit, put a bit more fluid in and put the replacement new radiator cap on again.
Made it home with heat on full blast (blowing mildly warm air) with engine at operating temp.
We shall see how it works out, but it only keeps getting better.
For the record, should the reservoir walls have been cleaned in the flush? There is a ton of sludge and grime in there.
honestly vlad go to subaru and get a t/stat most aftermarket ones suck unless its a superstat , we have had to change out most we do put in scoobys for some reason ,secondly is that a 2.5 mtr if it is they are notorious for head gasket problems but that is second worry right now if it was mine and wantin to avoid a shop replace wit stock t/stat ,get a rad cap also and flush and fill wit new coolant at 50/50 mix save the money and buy straight and dilute it yourself and clean the bottle out . on a side note was it sludgy white or tan shit bud
I dont think a flush would clean the overflow tank. It mainly flushes the motor, hoses and radiator.
thats why ya clean it out wit a hose takes 2 seconds to get it off
My suggestion would be to definitely get an OEM or decent aftermarket thermostat first. I would also clean the overflow well, then run it. Any more gunk, drain and fill, if not, just top off. Go from there. I know others above me have said the same thing, just concurring basically.
Well here is a bombshell… coolant tested positive for carbon monoxide after replacing thermostat, water pump and timing belt.
=(
I really didn’t want to say anything, because I was really hoping it wasn’t- but yeah. Head gaskets. I had to replace mine on my old legacy less than two months after I got the car.
Not too bad of a job, you do have to pull the motor though, as the DOHC heads are too tall to clear the rails when you try to jack just each side of the motor at a time… Check/replace the timing belt tensioner and/or the idler pulley as well.
Check with Fred at Capitaland in Scotia, he’s the OEM Subaru parts man (shameless plug).
I’m not even going to start to get into it myself. Technically I could do it, but I have a bad reputation for starting projects and never finishing them so my daily driver isn’t going to be a part of that problem.
It’s at trusted hands at Inline Performance, should be back late next week. Motor will be pulled, heads checked for warpadge and both gaskets replaced just to be on the safe side.
What did the head gaskets and head bolts run ya from Fred, Lyndon?
Now I’m just not sure if the overheating caused the head gasket issue or that was an issue to begin with. Makes wonder if the egg came before the chicken.
the head gasket was the issue all along they are notorius for em like i said earlier they are a easy head to do just a pain in the ass thats why the sludge was in res and ya kept loosin heat ,oh yeah fred is a awsome guy