Or put the man pants on and I will tig the right bung on there for him and call it a day.
Tapping it just wont cut it. Giving that the wall thickness on most oil pans is like 1/8" thick, you will get all of 2.25 threads cut into the pan if its a 1/2NPT! Not only would it hold about 5ft/lb’s when you go to tighten it, it would leak like a bitch.
now that i think of it i think the y8 did come with an cast aluminum pan, it was like the only d series to have one
Aluminum pans are the shit, ask car ramrod :lol
Seriously guys, this is the tech section, not off beat. I like shooting the shit as much as the next, but this isnt the “Honda Oil Pan Wiki” thread.
Lucky this isnt in the fab section or I know one mod that would have already deleted this unrelated junk. :ninja
I have a cracked y8 pan that has a fitting in it for you !
D16y8’s definitely did come with cast pans, and I have drilled and tapped them.
Correct. All NPT fittings require paste or tape to properly seal.
where the hell are you drilling and tapping them?
http://www.502streetscene.net/forum/showthread.php?t=132179
between those ribs the wall thickness is just like i said THIN AS SHIT!
I actually tapped the last one I did right up against the ribs so the threads bit into it. Never had an issue with it…
fuck that shit. So essentially you formed an L shaped seal! lol
so you have 2.25 full threads at the base of the fitting, and say 5% surface area of about 15 more threads on the rib holding on to an oil fitting! Johnnnnyyyyy, come on… :hug Not only when you “tap” the tiny threads on the rib, the first 2 threads and the lil 1/8th" “ring” of aluminum is the only thing guiding the tap. the farther up that rib you attempt to cut threads into, the more the tap deflects… simple leverage. Wheres you little math formula you used on the surface area of 2 wastegates? Use it on this now their aint shit holdin that fitting in there.
I will put money on you can bolt that pan up to the ceiling of the shop, and hang MAYBE 100lbs off it before it yanked out. Welding a bung on, I bet I could hang a motor off the fitting!
Not to mention, this is one thing I wouldnt under build. If leaks or completely pulls out, you will dump 4.5 quarts of oil out a 3/4" hole in a matter of seconds. not to mention the track would ban you for life if that were to happen! :rofl
I still love you johnny:tongue
Lol it’s a fuckin’ D series. No need to give a shit about it at all. :lol
no you wouldn’t dump quarts nowhere why would you drill and tap the BOTTOM of the pan for a return line. THAT WOULD BE DUMB. Drill and tap at the top and you WIN. DAMNIT WOODY.
this is why I dont post on this site often, if you don’t know what the hell your talking about (GERMANPSI) then shut the hell up. I have a 2000 civic ex with a d16y8 that i have had since it came from the dealership. It has and has always had an alum. pan. I have had the stock one on the car since it was new but need to move the location of the oil return from the turbo. I will look at it more when I get into it tomorrow but I was just looking for real advise like what came from Krazykid, not you just being a pain in the ass.
I don’t post on this site often because everyone is always dicking around and being assholes and calling each other names. I come on the internet solely for comradery and looking at pictures of flowers and rainbows. Violence and arguments make the internet bad and offend me.
Boys things will change in shortly :rofl just a sec. :thumbup
So you wanna make out or something?
Wayne the TOP of the oil pan would be an engine block! lol You return into the side of the pan… which I think is what you meant anyways! DAGGGNABBBIT WAYNE
:facepalm Anything worth doing is worth doing right :number1
Return oil into oil filler cap. Problem solved.
Scavenge pump ftw???
