help

Basically, after a couple of hours of driving around aimlessly ( a little racing on some back roads on the straight, nothing too hard, 6000rpm shifts max) i drop a fellow 240 owner off(hes on the boards, ndj007 i think), my car starts to studder… i manage to soemhow get it like 10 ft, and it stalled. The car turns over, idles around 900 for a second or so, then starts to studder and die. When i try to give it some gas to keep er alive, it does nothing and will stall. Im really puzzled at this, is there a cable thats loose or something?

On a side note: i noticed myt car is really slow compared to a stock 91 integra rs (B18A i think) and another friend of mine who has a pretty clean 92 blue s13 as well, i only have 179k and the air filter is a little dirty. like my 3rd gear feels like i have little pull at 4000 just cruisin and like i go to stomp on it, and it lags, and is slow, where my friend in the other 240 just booted it, like i couldnt stand a chance. Any help to make my car better now that its repainted and fixed again would be great lol.
pics of the front end soon to follow ( a week i think)

ciao

-Brian

Might be a fuel delivery issue, or your MAF.
When you turn the key to ON can you hear your fuel pump prime the system?

hmmm ill check those out, i know the fuel filter has both lines secured

that could be “limp mode”

make sure the plug on your MAF is tight and secure. if it comes loose the car will not rev past 2000 in order to prevent damage to the motor.

check your injector harness, make sure they arent loose or dirty like sashas mom. <— joke.

i have a feeling it could be the maf, as i was screwing around with the air box last nite but it was fine after, maybe it just took some time to fuck up lol, still waiting for a ride to get to my car, then i can check, but keep the suggestions commin

-brian

I’m going to agree with nocwage … dollars to donuts it’s your fuel pump cacked out.

The sending unit on 240s (the part that houses the fuel pump and wiring) rots out pretty badly.

If your fuel pump is not coming on, you can always hardwire a 12v hot in run source to the positive lead on the sending unit, and make a good ground for it too. I can get you the colors of the wires if you need them.

If the pump still doesn’t come on, it’s probably dead.

The pump could be fine, but it really sounds to me like your car is starving for fuel. That might explain why you’re slower than your friend and the Ickura.

would my car having a really really low temp in the winter (like sometimes under 2 little bars on the s13) after running for like an hour be a sign of that??? cuase i have been noticing it more frequently

so yea…i went and started it this afternoon, boom, it works, it idles crazy tho… sometimes itll sit around 1000, then go to 700, then up to 1500, then down to 500, and stabalize, but for some reason it works :S

It’s probably your coolant temperature sensor going. That crazy idle happend to me too, was really hard to track down. May also be why your water temp is weird. If it is, don’t disconnect your neg battery terminal until you get it fixed, because it won’t let you start your car (or mine didn’t)!

Good luck!

it may even be something as simple as the sock (little filter) on the fuel pump. if that thing is dirty or even collapsed it will block the fuel from entering the pump. so before you spend lots of money on a pump change that sock…

they are like $20 at NAPA

or if you find out that you have a faulty pump i have a fairly new one (under 1000km) you can have for $60 with the sock (ka24e)

Change fuel filter too.

What kind of driving do you do? Most 240s I see in the winter, once you put their nose into fresh air it will stay pretty cold.

^^^ Yeah, I put a 300ZX fuel filter on (w/ distrib cap/rotor/O2 at the same time) and made a huge difference in mid-high range power and smoothness. Feels like new again. But with your conditions, I doubt it IS the problem, just might help a little. Anyways, according to FSM, it is not even a maint. item, just changed if clogged/problematic.

From my experience with Nissans, your coolant gauge should be at the same spot everyday after warmed up (middle-ish), hot or cold out, no exceptions.

You might wnt to check the connection to your fuel pump at the top of the sending unit. I have seen it more then a few times that the button style connectors rust out and cause intermitent connection. So it will just shut down out of the blue then start back up at some random time, sometimes the car will shut down while going around a corner then start back up on its own as you exit the corner (as long as it is still in gear).