I’ll be using NGK Iridium IX(?) plugs (2 steps colder) running pure C16 on the spray. I have a scan gauge to monitor my timing and knock. No wideband yet, but I did plan on tuning for an 11.5. It’s probably going to be ~120 shot. Whatever it takes to break the 450 mark. On that shot it should also make over 550wtq. The stock bottom end is good for ~550whp all day long. The only thing that will not hold that power is the chain that drives the balance shafts, which I have already removed.
I’d for sure run standard NGK copper plugs.
NGK BKR7E or custom NGK 8 range. ~$2 a plug too 
Why use copper? I know iridium doesn’t last long, or so I’ve heard. It seems like everyone and their mother with a fast SRT-4 uses NGK LZTR7AIX-13. They are the only plug that I can find 2 steps colder on every SRT-4 performance site.
Here is the info you need:
14mm Thread, 25mm (.984") Reach, 5/8" (16mm) Hex Size, Tapered Seat, Resistor, Extended Projected Tip, Solid Terminal, Projected Core Nose, Extended Length Plug, V-Power (V-Grooved Centere Electrode), .050" (1.3mm) Gap, Heat Range 5
These are the stock NGK specs for an SRT-4. You can then go here: NGK.com and customize your plug :up
Edit, all that seems to come up are iridium…hmm
This is what i use.
I cant believe the stock block can hold 550whp. That’s crazy.
Cast iron block with forged internals 
dodge actually did their homework when designing the srt-4 motor. the block and internals are top notch… the stock exhaust manifold/turbo is retarded though (all one piece.)
I run the cheap Autolites 2 ranges colder on my spray car with no problems. Gapped at .035"
BKR7E for my car(6097s) thats all i will use. gapped at about .026" if i sprayed my car id stick with that plug as well. stock heatrange on my car is a 6.
10’s are sick! good luck, not many people join the 10 second club.
Yeah, they’re tough as nails and is quite surprizing coming from the late model chrysler/dodge here… When I had the avenger on the hybrid motor(420a 2.0 head, 2.4L caravan block), I used SRT 4 internals in it. Main reason was cost…at the time I could get a complete SRT-4 rod/piston/ring assembly for under $80 <—not joking. Full factory forged internals for under $400. At the time I did it, this “SRT4 hybrid” process was just in its infant stages as the SRT-4 JUST hit the market. Myself and a few others online(ASEC) had pursued this option and were putting down abusing 4-500whp and not a peep from the motor, and that was with the shitty port fueler/O34 EIC typy piggyback fueling we were using at the time on stock PCM maps. Highest recorded run on my old FWD beast was 452WHP, but that was only boost no nitrous.
Oh and Jim I’d like a ride in it when all said and done. I don’t normally think like that, but I think this car of your might bring back some fond FWD torque steer memories, hahahah!
The torque steer is absolutely horrible right now, I cant imagine what it’s going to be like on the spray!
What diff are you running? OEM LSD? I put a quaife ABT in the dodge and it solved most of the issue, but unequal length halfshafts are the main culprit/cause to TS in most chassis. They’re cake to install and setup in the NVG transaxles.
Cool, thanks for the info.
OEM in my car is a quaife ATB. The 03’s did not have them, they came in the 04 and 05 model years. Most torque steer occurs in the street when hitting small bumps at WOT in 3rd and breaking the tires loose
Thanks man. My goal for the car is single digits with a built bottom end, big turbo, and 2-stage shot.
:eek2 :tongue
Yeah that’s just the jerkyness of the ABT. Downside of torque biasing diffs right there. Repetitive and rapid succession loading/unloading of an ABT can induce torque distribution fluctuations which cause torque steer.
I’m pretty sure the car has a jackshaft and equal length halfshafts right, so that rules out torsional toque steer for the most part.
Yeah it does. I mean, I haven’t driven any other “fast” front wheel drive cars to compare it to, every other vehicle I’ve had with a respectable amount of power had been RWD.