HKS wastegate actuator problem

SON240sx Automotive
1

So I finally had the chance to install my HKS wastegate actuator but I ran into some problems with the install. It seems that the bracket that came with the wastegate wasn’t even close to the proper fittings (no clearance). So I re-used the OEM bracket and install was fine. Now the trouble begins:
After the install, it is VERY hard to get boost and the BOV doesn’t even sound. I have to accelerate HARD to even register any boost, unlike the OEM where it was responsive. Also, my fuel consumption has gotten worse since the install. Below are some pictures of the engine bay and I can’t seem to figure out the problem.
Here is a pic of my WG
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y277/KennethChan/Misc/DSC01563.jpg

Here is a shot covering the driver side bay. All the lines haven’t been moved, all I did was replace the WG and put the hose where it belonged so I didn’t touch any other hoses except the one leading to the WG
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y277/KennethChan/Misc/DSC01566.jpg

I’m curious as to what this is. Maybe this could be the problem.http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y277/KennethChan/Misc/DSC01565.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y277/KennethChan/Misc/DSC01569.jpg

Anyways, any help would be appreciated. I didn’t do the SR20DET engine install myself so I’m still not sure what parts are what.

2

Sounds like your wastegate isn’t closing all the way.

Is the actuator rod adjustable? It may be too far out.

3

in the top pic you can even see that the wastgate is half open man.
un clip it and give the give the flaper a wiggle to get to sit closed then tighten the rod and clip it back on.
Mael

4

Agreed…

Their should be a decent amount of force on that rod as well to ensure that the gate does not open under boost either (just keep tightening it and trying to pull the arm to open the door) it should take a decent tug to open it.

But hopefully you have a boost gauge to keep an eyee on it… if then to be on the safe side just go a little @ a time. :wink:

5

when I initially installed it, I had the arm screwed towards the bladder until the gate arm was perpendicular to the ground. I extended the arm because I thought it was the other way around. I do have a boost gauge and I can see that after I installed the WG, the needle hardly passes 0 whereas the OEM was faster and climbed to max boost at the intended rpm range

6

I’ll shrink the rod length again cause the general consensus is that it’s closed when the turbo gate arm is perpendicular to the ground. If that doesn’t help the problem then I’m screwed
thanks guys

7

Ah…finally I got the damn thing to properly boost up
So yeah, the rod was too far out and jus in case, I overshorten the rod so I had to pull it out a bit so I can hook it to the WG arm
The thing that gets me is that the WG is SUPPOSED to provide a max boost of 11-12 psi, but I have to rev at higher rpms in order to push past stock boost (7 psi). Is it supposed to be like this? or is it supposed to have the same response as the OEM one?

8

keep closing it until it spikes up a bit then back it down

9

sorrie if I sound like a noob, but wat does that mean?

10

keep tightening the rod and testing it until the boost goes up to like 13psi and then starts dropping down to 10ish

then lower it a bit and it should hold a constant 10

11

its supposed to be hard to pull the actuator arm onto the flap.

if you can just slip it on you dont have the arm anywhere near short enough.

btw the hks wastegate is only efficent at 10PSI + otherwise the stock actuator arm is much better.

12

whast is this? you asked, charcoal evap canister for your fuel system, part of it is the 3rd line from your gas tank,

fuel lines = feed, return, vapour-this goes to the can.