Dont use WD-40 unless you want everything greasy, use starting fluid it works best or carb cleaner.
cuz i have zero experience diagnosing shitty running eg’s or tegs right :meh2:
it could certainly be a FUEL issue, like a dead injector or a pump on its way out…i just said it was doubtful its a clogged filter cuz i’ve never seen any eg or teg have a shitty idle from a clogged filter.
but like everyone else said, its most likely a vac leak, esp if it had an fmu before, who knows how many T’ed vac lines there are in the bay.
I thought that’s why you’re selling your hatch?
JK:mamoru:
yea i def should.
It had one vac line going that came out of the fmu that i capped off and it was just as bad when that thing was in. Tomorrow im gonna go over the car with a fine tooth comb and try jays iacv ill let you guys know what happens. Thanks for the help!
Id say everything you described is coming from your map sensor code. If the map sensor is not functioning properly the ecu substitutes a value (basically guessing) and make the engine run pig rich and itll run with a stumble and somtimes miss. The map sensor code can be caused from either a defective sensor, bad wiring etc… i believe on a 98 gsr its located on the tb itself.
turn up the idle
this should work
+2 for map sensor, if you decide to spray starting fluid/wd-40 or anything like that, make sure you dont have arcing wires, heard many stories of cars igniting because of this.
yea the map sensor was shitty so i pulled it an replaced it a few days ago and still the same. Idles rough and almost stalls, runs rich as hell. Its got to be something else.
slap that fmu back in
lol fuck that, it was still the same when that was in.
ok
I hate integra!!! every single one ive had had a lumpy idle and I never got to the bottom of it.This one is by far the worst, at least my other ones bounced their idles from 800-1500 and didnt stall lol.
if you still have a map code you still have a problem, obviously the sensor itself was probably not defective, you probably have a wiring problem, you should bust out a digital multimeter… There are 3 wires on the plug, when the car is keyed on but the engine is not running, you should +5v on 1 wire and ground on another wire, the other wire should have nothing on it because its the map sensor output to the ecu. check to see if you have continuity between this wire and the ecu, and also check the wires for continuity with eachother and make sure they arent shorted
I will check that out thanks.
is the car stock?
stock injectors etc?
what codes is it throwing?
if its throwing codes for cylinder misfire you should get a good o2 sensor, test the plug wires, change cap and rotor and plugs *since you already did the plugs get the rest and that should take care of the cylinder misfire codes
get rid of the check engine lights and then work on the idle
make sure you reset your ecu after you put in the new map sensor
reading pwns jooo