NAPA (sKRAPPER) CARRIES NO / NC FP (AS WELL AS hOBBS) SWITCHES, i’VE GOTTEN THEM THERE BEFORE.
cool, good to know. He’s right by my house, too.
buy/install meth kit and tune with nozzle size. problem solved.
if your gunn ahave to refill your nitrous you might as well refill meth instead.
Looks good. Does anyone know if NYI requires a blow down tube? We were just talking about it.
any track will require a blow down tube depending if the tech wants to be picky.
I’ve never been hassled for not having one and my purge makes it fairly obvious that I’m running nitrous.
Good call on picking up the window switch…it’s way to easy to screw something up without one. Make sure you order the pills too (unless you picked up a digital one). You’ll want a 3000rpm one and one a few hundred RPM’s below redline.
Wiring looks good. If the heater is working correctly you shouldn’t have to worry about pressure warnings and stuff like that. I had a couple LED’s on my setup but they just complicated the whole system so I ended up removing them.
I got a digital window switch. It was like the same price for a pill style + adapter. The digital one doesn’t need an adapter, from what I read.
If the LEDs are too much, then I’ll delete them, but I think they will be worth it.
If you need a blowdown tube I have a spare I dont need. I think they are pretty cheap anyhow.
The digital ones must have come down in price then…I might have to pick one up to replace my pill style one that’s a pain in the ass.
If you don’t mind the extra wiring/complexity the LED’s are fine. I already had a nest of wire in there and getting rid of them cleaned it up just a little bit. They are nice to have.
My wiring is always clean using molex connectors, loom and shrink tube.
If you still need it I have a 8969 MSD sitting at my parents house new in a box… bastard. Maybe it will go on the M3.
I would just buy the dynotune nitrous controller that I had. It was gear dependent, window switch, all in one box. It was easy to use, easy to program, and worked really well. It was cheap too, only $109 I think.
dude this is so wrong
where is your fucking “danger to intake manifold” LED?
You should label the 1050psi light “VTEC READY TO KICK IN YO”
Clearly that’ll be on his laptop in the passenger seat. You didn’t see the 2nd diagram I take it.
they hassled me pretty good about it and I didn’t even have a full bottle (just had it installed and it was empty or something)
for real. that window switch alone is a waste for you newman. the micro controllers for nitrous now have a built in WOT switch (TPS signal), Window switch, and gear lockout for $110. this would simplify the install. as far as everything else why not a gauge in the compartment? I have a digital one that will be run to my dash and a mechanical one on my second bottle.
Newman, the only problem I see is that your “Heater” switch must be on for you to get
your 1050 psi indicator to be active.
During the summer, if the bottle is already warm and at 1050psi, your indicator will not show it. You will have to flip the heater switch on. (basically anytime you want to spray)
It will work but when its warm out it will be a bit counter intuitive.
I use this wot/window switch on my bike. It also has features that I do not use.
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=194
Great product IMO.
Hmm, while I agree the dynotune controller looks nice, It would almost be a waste, as the lotus gets it’s speed signal from the abs wheel, which is too high a resolution for most aftermarket speed sensing devices.
Also, I would need to buy a tach adapter to run it. Which makes the price closer to 200 dollars…
AEM EMS inline would work well. They are on sale from AEM at the current moment.