nitrous veterans, looking at picking a kit up.... complete n2o noob

NYSpeed Automotive
1

So I seem to have found a killer deal on a nitrous oxide system. I’ve never messed with it (except maybe back in my younger partying days :D) though and just would like some insight on how the systems actually work and the level of difficulty on installing it.

Under the hood, they look like they can get pretty complex. Is it pretty much a solenoid that allows the system to spray? How is it run to a window switch? electronically via some type of piggyback going to the ECU? The more detail the better if anyone cares to elaborate for me.

Also, I wouldn’t be as concerned if I was driving an automatic, but being that the car is a standard, it seems like there is more margin for error especially on a misshift. I’d like to install it myself… not only for the learning experience but also so I know how everything works in case of it malfunctioning or anything like that. Also, what causes intake backfires and how can you prevent it? I want to use it as safely as possible.

This will be on an LS1 car btw. I was looking at one of the plate setups… what is the advantage to this over spraying into the intake itself? I’m looking at no more than maybe a 100-150 shot. I know the fuel system will probably need an upgrade, along with a tune… but is there anything else I should be made aware of before starting in on it? Whats the difference between a wet and dry kit? The wet is injected with the fuel isn’t it? Where a dry is “stand alone” for lack of better words?

This kit is from a totally different vehicle, but I can’t imagine that they’re too different in most cases.

any help is appreciated. I’d like to cover all the bases before I buy it. As they say “measure twice, cut once”. I know there are quite a few guys on here that have been around the block (bottle?) a few times.

thanks in advance

2

Nitrous is easy, but be responsible or it can bite you.

They are not complex at all really, unless you’re looking into a dual stage, progressive controller, yadda yada

Dry Kit - on noid, and you splice a fitting into your fuel rail return line.
Wet kit - two solenoids, two jets - one for fuel & one for n20.

Dry kits - (IIRC - i havent used a dry setup in years) you inject n20 into the system via solenoid & nozze, and you raise the rail fuel pressure to inject more fuel into the system through stock injectors, and you may need a better fuel pump to do so.

Wet kits - I prefer wet kits because you’re not messing with anything else - standalone so to speak. I don’t prefer the idea of bumping fuel psi to compensate, so long as you’re using the right jets, you don’t have to worry about the “tune” of the shot. Easier to install IMO too.

No piggy back, no messing with the ECU (unless you want to tune it :gotme: ), nothing more then plug & play really.

You don’t need anything more then a WOT switch & a main switch.

If you wanna play safely, I’d say:
Main switch to power up the relay (which controls the noids)
WOT switch to ground the relay (which will :tspry: )
Fuel PSI safety switch to shut it down in case the rail psi drops too much / fails
Window switch to protect you down low & up high - n20 causes ALOT of cylinder pressure, so if you spray to low RPMs you are more likely to break something.

Everyhing is Application dependant, so talk to the LSx boys about it. I know a few people on here are running 100 shots on their LSx without any real problem.

I think for your app the “ring” is preferred over the nozzle.

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ohh boy seeing the way u drive steve, your motor will last 16 seconds

lol

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The easiest kit to install is a Zex kit …

some also say this is the safest … i have used MANY different brands … i love them all … they all do the same thing … just the atomization is different within brands …

i say zex because of the simplicity of the install …

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I would go with a Zex 100 or 125 shot wet kit if you have a fairly stock LS1.

Install is pretty easy. And it would be safe on your motor if set-up right

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I dunno i ran a zex once and had issues with the WOT johnson. was alright otherwise.

oh, and OP make sure you put a bottle psi gauge somewhere (on the bottle or in the cabin)… bottle psi is very important.

600# in the bottle is like running “rich”
900# is about the recommended iirc
1200# is lean, alot of fun, and likely to break something

7

great info, thanks guys :tup:

So with bottle pressure, it’s probably a good investment to pickup a bottle heater/cooler to get consistant bottle pressure? if the bottle is @ 1200psi, I assume you’re spraying more than you really should be per the jet size?

Also, what about the whole manual vs automatic trans thing? anything to really worry about in that respect? Also what about intake backfires? How can you prevent that? A guy in my old car club blew his intake into 30 pieces on a backfire, which I really don’t want to happen.

Keep the info coming, I’ve learned a bunch from this thread already :tup:

oh and Kevin, don’t be mad that I was pulling on you (granted the race lasted 3 seconds and your turbo wasn’t spooled lol)

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ahah u did good running a non turboed v6

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Direct Port, get it done.

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Use a bottle heater. A good one isn’t that expensive and should have the capability to keep your bottle pressure inside a 50psi window.

Manual vs. Auto. Since you said you were manual, it’s strongly reccomended that you use a window switch. The MSD digital is nice, I used that last year, but if you want something a little better, the Timing Tuner acts as a window switch (minus the cool digital display) and also can retard however much spark timing you want, only when spraying. It’s a cool feature to have, because then you can run your full timing NA. Set the window switch a few hundred RPMs lower than your rev limiter. I have mine set about 100 RPMs below my shift point. That way, if you mis shift, you won’t have problems. Plus, you don’t want to accidentally spray too low in the RPM range, setting it at 3000 or a little above is ideal for most setups.

A properly set up system shouldn’t backfire. Dry kit backfires are pretty much non existent. Wet kits are the ones that can have problems if something’s off. It’s a good habit to get into checking your 'noids before every use, just to make sure you can hear them click.

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Ok defenetly go wet or direct port, safest by far. Also as far as a manuel traany, if you have a WOT switch when you let off the gas to shift it stops spraying, so just dont power shift! Also if you have a stock clutch you may want to start saving. Pat (psychoPJ) has the 6spdTA with juice talk to him… Oh also defenetly get a pressure gauge and a bottle heater, dont waste your money on a blanket… My old car would drop 3/10ths in the 1/4 from 900psi to 1100-1200psi!! Huge difference!

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I dunno everybody inlcuding myself with a wet kit has experienced atleast one back fire, and it will scare the shit out of you!!!

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I never backfired on any kit. Then again, I’ve only used ~20 10# bottles in my life.

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Baby…

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LOL, usually a backfire isnt a big deal, unless you have anything plastic left in your intake system, if you have a metal tb to a metal intake you will be fine, but if you are tyring to be sneeky with a stock intake/plastic/carbon fiber/etc. be careful…

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yeah, my intake is plastic (or maybe composite… deff not metal). :frowning:

So I assume it’s [backfires] fairly common using nitrous?

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No. Backfires are NOT common. If you are getting repeated backfires something is not right. Usually high RPM backfires are due to a lean condition, caused by insufficient fuel pressure, or tagging the limiter, and pulling fuel. Usually a low RPM backfire is the result of a fuel puddling issue.

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Not me but I have only emptied about 40-50 bottles i should try harder I guess.

Backfire are for sure not common. Any kit will be fine for your car. I have run a nx wet kit on mine for 4 years now with no problems. I spray the shit out of it and hit the track often. If your car is close to stock i wouldn’t worry about a full tune. Also you should be fine as far as fuel goes as well. Get a window switch for sure. Change to a one step colder plug (NGK TR6) and then wideband verify the the A/F and have fun.

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thanks guys :tup: great info

When I grab it and go to install it, does anyone want to give me some assistance on the install? I wouldn’t mind having someone there that’s done it before in case I unknowingly fuck something up.

I’ll buy beer and pizza