Wet vs Dry nitrous kits

What are some of the pro’s and cons of both, and which is the better “all around” choice to go with??

I think this could be useful for people in the future looking into going down the nitrous path.

wet,always best to have extra fuel!

:confused: dont dry kits add fuel too?

yes…both add extra fuel, id personally like to someday have a directport kit, i wont use wet unless its that way on my car

dry is before maf, and the computer reads it as extra air coming into the motor, soo u must have the correct size injectors in ur car, and the computer will then add the extra fuel as needed…

what if you dont have maf?
i thought ‘NOS’ kits had an extra solenoid that raises fuel pressure when nitrous comes on, and ‘ZEX’ kits had that little purple computer to do the same thing? i was under the impression that both were considered dry kits.

i was just taking stuff from the ls1tech site…which is for ls1 cars which have mafs, i konw i was very general with my answer, but yes dry needs etxra fuel too

not really, a nos kit with own fuel line is best!

the zex kit just bumps the fuel pressure, not very effective, a seperate fuel line or a tune just for the spray is the only way to go,

sorry a dry kit is after MAF. if you spray the maf you have the chance of freezing the wires in the maf. you can rely on the maf but i wouldnt and havent. my setups are right before the TB. about 6’’ from the TB.

dry is alot safer on a EFI motor. it uses vaccum to increase fuel. if you run out of juice you just become NA again.

now for some reason if you have a return less fuel system then your somewhat stuck with a wet system to help increase the fuel.

i havent encounterd an install on a returnless system yet

since efi intakes really dont optimize that added fuel in the intake if you encounter a back fire you will eithe melt or blow the mainifold into pieces.

wet supplys fuel and juice. if you run out of juice you run extremely rich now. now if you run out of fuel for some reason and your hobb switch fails you are now running extremely lean and have more of a chance of denotnaion.

wet also takes more for hook up, you have more solinoids to worry about and etc.

for dry its usually one soloniod or like in a Zex kit you have a NMU which is contained solonoid.

now if youre able to run a plate kit then thats a lot better. since its adding the fuel and juice at the same time the motor encounters teh stock fuel system. and there is no chance of it puddling off the walls in the intake or plenum. this is also a better setup since your not lossing any pressure of it going thru unwanted intake tubes or mainfold runners. its right above the combustion chamber

good post, this helps us both.

we’re thinking of going the wet course since it injects the right amount of fuel with the n2o (well from what i beleive) Dry injects just n2o and you have to put larger injectors in the car and such… (i think wet would be the way to go for me and a friend)
we’d love to go with a direct port like quik said and not have to worry about puddling in the intake and such but i think what we’re going to do is get one of those airaid throttle body spacers and just plug the n2o nozzles into the (powerports) that are both sides of the throttle body spacer…

useful comments are welcome

i’m running a 100shot direct port NOS system wet that i put together

you dont neccesary need to upgrade injectors on a dry kit. you can easily run the 150shot setup on a stock 19# injector mustang. as long as you use te complete kit of fuel pump and regulator

so no you dont need to upgrade injectors on a STOCK motor. now if you did say H/C/I then yes you should. for teh one setup i had setup i ran 30s when all it took was 24 but went with 30s for the juice since it was for a heavy shot.

same thing with the truck upped the injectors since motor will be modded and dont want to max out the injector %. but if youre a stock motor you dont need to worry about upgrading the injectors

–Chad for your setup. since you just bought 42s i would do it this way. either use the dry kit for a IC cooler or only run a 50 shot. since if you get greedy the 42s already arent enough to supply the numbers youre hoping for.

or sell it and run a plate kit that is in between the mainfolds. this would give you the most. ill take the zex off you if you need to part with it.

personally i would use it as a IC cooler, just for the fact that on a stock motor those 60/63 can easily spilt a block. now since you have a H/C/I your more likely to spilt it and now youre thinking of juicing chances are more then likely.

sorry jeeeeeeeeves,ls1 dry kit iss befor mass!next!

x2…at least thats what i thought

for your return less system. for the 97-98 Y bodys and the 99-02 trucks its after the maf. since it has a return system. now on the newer trucks and F bodys no return line so you would have to use the maf to increase the fuel. :booty:

BIG SHOT(100+) go wet. Little shot(75 or less), go dry. Just put the thing on your intercooler chad.

wow 100 is a big shot damm, then i wonder what a 175 and up is, a 300 shot must be Mr. mandingo shot

hey corkie blow me 100+ means 100-infinity

run booth a wet shot and a dry shot