My front rotors are pulsating a little, and I want to get new pads/rotors to replace them before it gets too bad.
I took it to the dealer for an inspection, and they told me “We replaced the rotors 13,000 miles ago(INFO: Pulsating at 17k. I have 30k now. Got them done under warranty back then). They are pulsating and we can’t pass your inspection because of that. We can’t machine them, because they’re warped, and we can’t do it. Replacing them will be $480.”
So, I left paying $21 for the inspection that didn’t pass, because of slightly pulsating brakes. Honestly… you can barely feel it, and a visual inspection of the rotors, they look perfectly fine! I was, to say the least… pissed.
I can get performance pads and rotors for half that, and am wondering if it is hard to do yourself. It’s a new car, so no rust. I’m guessing you remove the wheel, unbolt the caliper, unbolt the rotor and replace, bolt it all back together, after putting new pads in the caliper.
Do you have to bleed the brakes, or do something to make it work correctly?
-take the wheel off (duh)
-There should be a bolt on the back of the caliper, allowing it to swivel up, remove that bolt (there are 2 holding it on, only remove 1 so it will swivel up/down, it doesnt matter)
-Remove the old pads
-youll have to drive the piston in the caliper back, use a large c-clamp. Make sure you loosen the cap on the reservior, and watch the level in the reservoir as you drive the piston back. It will rise, if it looks like its gonna overflow, take some out with a turkey baster or something like that.
-With the piston driven back, put the new pads in, swivel the caliper back into place, put the bolt back in and voila…
Id reccomend you look into Hawk HPS pads, i have them on the GTP and theyre great, except for the fact they squeek a little…
pulsating brakes dont have anything to do with inspection. Those asswipes are trying to bone you for $$$$. A inspection is done on a lift… not while driving around. There is NO WAY for a shop to tell if brakes are vibrating or pulsating when the car is on a lift. The job is not difficult but get a C-clamp amd a flat screwdriver in addition to a socket set. Some caliper bolts are of the Torx type so you may need that type socket/tool.
Make sure you clean new rotors thoroughly with acetone/laquer thinner and paper towels.
Bedding (breaking in) the pads will be a very important step to prevent vibration. It has to be done correctly.
take it to another place that doesn’t suck, per violator
EDIT: fuzzyfish and i think you should just take it to an oil change place since that way it’s a place that can’t replace those parts anyways & make money off you
anybody have a copy of the inspection laws ? id rather see him go back there and say “fuck you, pulsating petal doesnt matter, put a sticker on my car NOW”
Thanks for the assurance on the process Carl! I did it a long time ago on my prelude, but I remember bleeding my brakes. I don’t remember why. If I need help, think you could spare an hour to watch and help me out? Some day… maybe soon, maybe next spring. dunno yet.
I plan on using the HPS pads, and found a set of EBC slotted rotors for the front for $179. The pads are $65. Seems a little bit cheaper than the $500 they wanted! I can get rears and pads for $500… lol.
The sad thing is, they knew I worked at Northtown and I also know the service manager, as I worked with him too! And they STILL tried to rip me off! :tdown:
from the dmv site … i read it as saying if theres no damage to the brakes and the car stops staight, it passes … a pulsation in the pedal isnt a safety issue unless its a BAD pulsation
Brake pedal reserve - brake pedal must have 1/3 reserve.
Brake pedal fade - brake must hold for one minute without fading.
Power brake unit - check for damage.
Brake master cylinder - check for leakage and proper fluid level.
Disc brake pads - check condition.
Drum brake linings - thickness of linings must be at least 1/16 inch on bonded linings or at least 1/32 inch over rivet head on riveted linings, with no loose or missing rivets or lining.
Brake drums and/or rotors - check condition.
Wheel cylinders and/or calipers - check for leakage.
All brake lines and hoses - check for leaks, cracks, improper support, flattened, etc.
Parking brake - check for components and function.
Brake equalization - test vehicle for a straight stop without significant wheel pull.
It’s easy to do, usually pretty cheap too. Not sure how it is on that mazda of yours. But for the most part with front ones it’s quite easy. If you need a hand let me know. :tup:
They can fail you for warped rotors as they lead to instability in the vehical under stopping conditions. That shops price quote though is a HUGE ripoff.
As for doing pads and rotors. They are pretty. if you are unsure about doing them yourself though, I’d be more then happy to help you out for like $25 or something. I can teach ya through it. Or I’ll do them straightup for $50 for ya.
If and only if, things aren’t rusted. It may only be two bolts per caliper, but in Buffalo, they tend to require the most expletives per minute next to exhaust bolts. Be prepared, have lots of penetrating oil handy (and use it an hour before you even plan to start working), and also a BFH if the rotor doesn’t want to come off due to rusting to the hub.
word… take it somewhere else. i took mine to broad elm, and on my front rotors i have a couple hairline cracks where the holes are on my drilled/slotted rotors. my license plate bulb wasnt working. my egr is blocked off with a resistor in place (it threw a code for a few months but it stopped throwin a code a couple months back) and my raditator fan relay is bad causeing rpm’s to shoot up and rad fans to turn on when ac is turned on
what kind of car are you doing the pads/rotors on?
