Ok cool… thanks…
anythign else i should ask about?
does sam have a tune that would work for this cam?? I dont really wanna get into the $400 for a dyno tune, so if he doesn’t have a tune, that’ll get me in trouble - as they guy said above, a computer tune is necessary or the idle will be really rough
ported oil pump will help with oil psi
should be able to come up with something!
sweet man!
well, RPE seems to have awesome service… get back to me within 20 mins of when i send them questiosn… the guy said that there is no problem with valve clearance… valves will not hit the piston
:boink :burnout:
well, on LS1 tech, it just so happens that someone else has become interested in this cam also… the one guy came on and said it does have a nasty idle, but it doenst have a real agressive lobe profile, so its not going to be real hard on valvetrain… also he said that it will require a tune…
and one other person said to make sure you have the cam rifle drilled before ordering… what does that mean?
research, research and more research=what you have been looking for/want
welp, i did a compression test today down at Domination’s place… read 180 ± a little … so comression is apparently really good… so, looks like i’m lookin at somethin in the heads… he said about having the heads sent out and having new valve guides machined …
anything else i’m lookin at needing done? does this mean i’ll need to replace the valves and pushrods and stuff?
what all am i looking at here…
also, he suggested that we tear teh bottom end apart anyhow, and put new seals and bearings in… he was kinda busy, so i left pretty quick, but why is this? b/c the car has 60K already? and it would only do it some good??
what is a bottom end rebuild kit? (rings, bearings and seals)?
also, i’ve heard something about needing new head-studs… is this so?
dont think u need a rebuild!(BUT) IF WHEN u do the cam swap ,look real good at ur cam bearings,thats what u made need,which u would have to rebuild bottom end,revamp ur pcv syctem,see if that helps,if u pull the head u will need new head bolts,but if it has heads studs u can reuse them!
all internal bolts on this motor are Torque to yield. youll have over 100 bucks into head bolts and crank bolt if you do a cam. thats only if you decide to pull the heads
Ok ass bags, here’s the deal. When I quote a customer I pull out my Snap On labor estimate guide If its for something like headers or pulling and overhauling a motor. Never have I undercut other peoples writen, or verbal quotes. There is not, and should be no agreement that site sponsers should defer work to other shops if they can handle the task. This is not a comunist site. I can assure you that I am loyal to fellow site sponsers. I would not hesitate to make a referal to any one of your shops. Its just assanine to get upset if our capabilities overlap. Should I whine like a little bitch cause 1st try does cage work?:nuts: I heard Hybrid put adjustable strut rods on a 240. That chassis work right?
This isn’t a personal bickering match. Whom ever reads this that I’m refering to will know its them. I will thank you in advance for not continuing to muck up other peoples threads with some BS retort. All the shop owners know we’re cool, and thats all that matters.
Further more. As far as Bish’s engine. I’m recomending that we drop it out. I have a bad feeling about the guides in his heads. It doesn’t make sence that the valve seals are already hardened after only 60k. That leads me to believe that it has either been hammered on, or started cold and revved the fuck out of. Either way I think the bottom end should be examined. It does make some internal noise as well. No sence in not going one more step while its out to make certian that he won’t have any longevity issues. As far as the cam goes I don’t have much input. He just needs to research them, and hear testimonials from owners with different ones. Then the choice will be up to him.
its not the bottom end,they all have noise! the rest i wont coment on@!
Hmmmmm this kinda sounds like someone else wrote this for ya hmmmmmmmm