LS1 cam ?

Ok First of all i dont know much about cams but im on the look out for a mild cam for my car.i found this at thunder racing and it sounds good!
http://www.thunderracing.com/images/productdesc/trak.gif Thunder Racing Custom “TRAK” Camshaft - 231/234 .640/.590 112 LSA 2400-6800 RPM Power Band. Excellent mid-range & high RPM power. 3200+ stall, 3.42+ gear, computer tuning required. Due to the fast ramp rate of this camshaft, the use of 1.8 rockers is not recommended. Comp 921 Valve Springs are highly recommended.

I am intrested in this setup due to my previously install of 342 gears and 3200 stall, this way i will not have to reswap gearing and stall which will cost major bucks! what do ya think

cams are always a good thing to buy.
id say do it up. ask other ls1 guys if they have this cam and how it does/sounds…

That is too much camshaft for stock heads, and there are better ones out there. Also this would be a better question for www.wnyfbody.com seeing as there are many more LS1 people over there

get your stall re-stalled and get a trex

The dyno and TRACK results for that cam speak for them selfs…it has been performing very well…

I don’t know why JnJ makes comments about it being to much for stock heads…Go pull up the cam only list on LS1tech people are using MUCH larger cams…

People are running much larger cams and have been having good results I know of atleast 2 cars in the Buffalo area who were running trex cams and were very quick.

This cam should perform along the lines of the F13 and TSP torquer cam.

I still think your stall is small for this cam though…

Im sure someone will chime back in about under the curve power…thats great if your towing a boat or if you have a mad skillz 6spd car and cant shift…if you have any decent size stall 3500 or so your shift extension is still going to be 5000 or higher…so since your not going to be spending any time under 5000rpm when racing all that low end power is really gonna be useful :bloated:

If you want good cam advice try LS1tech.com

there ya go muddy…trex 4joo

I wouldnt run a trex on a A4 car with out atleast a 4000stall and 3.73s…

If I were you I would research the Futral F13 cam

TREX ya i know but i dont really need a full out race car. I just want something where i can run low 12’s all day ON MOTOR. I know i bought the wrong car to go very fast but every day when i drop the top and see nothing but sky… you get the point. I figure with a cam LT’s pulleys and some other cheap parts i can fully gain the results i want!

If you plan on sticking with the 3200 stall and 3.42 gears…and your only trying to run low 12s…

I would look into smaller cams like the 224/224 with pulley and a LTs and a good tune you should be low 12s.

the only reason I would run a bigger cam is i do want my car to lope (sounds soo sweet) but i am looking for 400 WHP

just get a kenne bell and voila! 550 rwhp without breaking a sweat! :wink: Oh shit, wrong car. Nevermind. :smiley:

+1

Thats what im talkin bout. :tup:

1.get the stall re-stalled
2.get big lopey cam
3. get gears
4. run 11’s
5. drop the top

It is very hard trying to educate an idiot but I will try.

Exactly when I think a convertible I figure he would want something fun to drive, not something that will lug around unless he is at WOT. Sherm seriously take your LS1tech cam only list and shove it up your ass, because most of the those cars have shit for street manors. Yes they are fast and produce good numbers but it is not something the average person would want to daily drive.

You also don’t think area (total power & torque) under the curve is important? What planet are you from? Ever hear the term horsepower sells cars (cams in this case) and torque wins races. I would give up 20 peak rwhp to gain 50 ft. lbs. in the low end and across the power band. Also it is pretty pointless to get over .600" lift with a bone stock casting because most stock castings go turbulent after .615" ish. Also the Comp LSK lobes are hell on a valvetrain for a daily driver. Now I know you (sherm) will not understand this but I will try. The LSK lobe is very aggressive, notice how they recommend Comp 921 springs because of the nature of the cam lobe. Also the Comp 921 springs are only $413.00 and me and most other people would recommend Ti retainers to lighten the valvetrain to reduce the risk of valve float and PTV disaster. SO the Comp 921 kit with Ti retainers is only $600.00. Not to mention you still need hardened pushrods ($125). So let me know again why I don’t know what I am talking about and why he could reach his goals and have a very nice daily driver with a smaller camshaft and spend alot less money

I have drove and driven in more cammed LS1 cars then you have ever seen JnJ…

If your tuner has a clue what they are doing the cars are still very driveable even with something the size of the trex…

Your talking costs of valvetrain parts…most people are running RPC dual springs…You can get a a cam+push rods+dual springs+retainers from Texas speed for $680

Two of my friends daily drove cars around here with the TREX cam in it…and did just fine…

JnJSpdShop “When we have no clue how to make it fast NA just add a power adder”

You don’t have to take my word for any of this call Texas Speed & Performance…Futral…Thunder racing…or any other major LS1 performance shop

Kennedy’s can do a custom billet for ~$350.

Okay the cammed LS1 car is certainly not YOURS, and a Trex with 3.42 and that stall would be a TURD.

What do you friends with these Trex cars run at the track. Last time I checked one was MIA and I don’t know the other. But enlighten me with the track times. I assure you, you can run just as fast and have a better daily driver with a much smaller camshaft.

Oh BTW LS1 cores are a bit more expensive than std. SBC cores from both Comp & Cammotion.

I didnt not really him to run the trex cam in his car…nor do I suggest he runs the trak cam…

I suggested something middle of the road like Futrals F13 cam which people are finding as a very good cam. Good driveability, Power and Idle…

Lets see Drew joined the army…and was running in the 11s at 125+…with a 1.7X on a 100shot…with a stock slipping clutch…

James won dyno day a few months back…and then blew up his 10bolt before he could make it to the track…he will be back out this coming year with a 12bolt…

A lot of people on here raced Drews car last spring before he left for the Army…including Badazz…I don’t rember Drew talking about power under the curve while he was pulling away from everyone…

Okay 11’s, is that 11.0 or 11.8. Plus that was with some nitrous so I am not really impressed when people with AFR heads or good ported heads and very small cams are running those numbers NA.

Again DYNO boy, dyno numbers don’t mean DICK. The proof is in how the car runs, not what kind of peak numbers it can make on the dyno. If that is all that mattered those 1000 rwhp Supras would be running mid to high 7’s in the quarter mile

I think the real issue is you are an idiot always looking for an arguement. Also actually building fast cars > your internet theory/knowledge

You have never built a fast NA car…

If you think your some master LS1 combo maker…Chucks car is right on par with all that other procharged LS1 cars with AFR heads and built bottom ends…

If its so easy to run those numbers with just AFR heads and or home ported heads and small cams…Why arnt any of the cars in your shop even running 11.0 or quicker?? with POWER ADDERS.

Anyways like I said don’t take my advice or JnJs

Call Texas Speed, Futral, Thunder racing…and tell them what mods you have and your goals…and they will hook you up…

I know nothing about LS1s anyways…