LT1 - what would I need to make about 340rwhp NA, and about 450 on N02.
Because of the lower initial cost of the motor, I may need to go this route for whatever swap I end up with. However, the benefit to the LS1 is that I can make that power with little money. Intake, exhaust, fuel pump/regulator, and a little bit of spray on occasion. If the LT1 requires more to make the power reliably (i.e. internals - rods/pistons,) I’ll nix it.
(lets start off with its been about 4 years since i messed with lt’s)
i did a cc305 cam (mid size for lt1’s) and 1.6roller rockers and all the supporting shit for about 750 that would be about 310ish too the wheels with full exhaust. maybe a lil more. you can do heads and cam with full exhaust and be right at 340-350i would imagine. its cheaper just to get an ls1 for tha amount and be just below it… and when you get money in alil while toss a cam in there and bam 400+ hp na and that motor loves the nitrous.
ive had both and ls will out perform it anyday but i do miss my lt a lil still actually alot
My Stock LT1 ran a 14.2 twice at PRP.in ur guys opinions do u think ws6 ram air hood w/ intake and SLP catback might b enough 2 squeek into the 13’s?is there ne other bolt on’s out there that could help me make the journey of mid 13’s??
is there any kind of programing out there for the LT1.i no there is for the LS1.other then full exhaust and intake ne other bolt ons out there that would help?
LS1’s respond well to bolt ons, ie headers, exhaust and whatnot, but both motors are great starting engines. I am more fond of the LT1 because its an iron block, and get one out of a vette and its a 4 bolt main. Also the LT1 has insane lowend torque, but the LS1 has a much better higher end. Also during the build you have to think if you need to stay emission legal or not. a cc305 will pass emissions here, but a cc306 wont last i heard. But if you are OBD2 then you can just reprogram to make it say it passes, unliek me who gets the sniffer. If you dont have to worry about emissions the id just buy the LE3 package for the LT1, upgrade your injectors, fuel pump, a few other things and your money.
only thing for the LT1 is a hypertech which isnt worth the money. Best bet is to get ahold of pcm4less, or madtunz (i think thats their name). Or you could just get a dyno tune. If its just CAI, headers, exhaust, and maybe some other small things pcm4less is perfect, but when you get inot heads and cams, and all that good internal stuff id go with a dyno tune.
I’ve used pcmforless.com for my heads/cam and now for my 383. Air/fuel ratio was pretty darn good for the heads/cam. Haven’t gotten a wideband printout yet for the 383.
yeah madz28.com thats it, thanks Jeff… theres also another one that if you have a laptop and the wire then send you the file and you can upload it yourself. They are alot cheaper. you think the pcmforless tune is good enough to stay with, or do you think you can get more power out of a dyno tune?
LT1 for 340whp?? hmmm head work and a LT4 hot cam will get you there pretty easily. full bolt ons with good tune has been around 300-310whp before. Lt4 hotcam isnt that aggressive of a cam either. and its cheap
but if your gonna run a nitrous shot, i’d step up to a nitrous grind…similar specs as the LT4 hotcam, or even the CC305 or 503 cam
maybe in a manual car, but not in a stock auto LT1. the 503’s powerband doesnt kickin until 1800rpm, where as the 305 hits at 1500. If you have an auto, with a stock TC, the 305 hits right where you stall at. other than that and the 4deg seperation in duration they are exactly the same
yeah either cam is nice, but one of the first mods on any auto car should be a higher stall converter, and definately should be done at the same time as a cam swap to match the new powerbands
