mine work fine. but i was wondering if they have to rebuilt every so many miles/years?? i have tein basic coilovers if that helps. and if so, who can this??
interested cause I have ksports I need to know how long is normal. I have about 5k on mine and everythings mint 
x3…i’d like to know…i bought my car with them on it already
hmmm, you have ksports?? i didn’t buy them for my car because they have a horrible rep for leaking on the sentras. but on other cars, they recieve great reviews.
myu guess would be normal struts? i would say it should last a long time. i wouldn’t be surprised to see a few years out of them under normal driving/some enthusiastic driving
cool. so if they need fixed, can you fix them???
ksports are normally hit or miss I believe, if you last more then 10k your good. I have mine set on soft almost all the time so it reduces chances of leaking ect. I haven’t checked them lately, guess I should.
Good aftermarket suspension should last a nominally shorter time that OEM, under much harsher driving conditions, since they tend to be overbuilt. As for JDM type coilovers… certain Tein, Ksport, Omnipower, and their ilk, they have significantly reduced life. The problem lies in the stack valve design. Over time the wear on the outer seals degrade far faster than OEM, and are not user serviceable. It should be pointed out that a lot of the decreased wear is from people running them too low, out of the range of efficient dampening for which they were designed. They can be rehabbed, but most of the time it isn’t worth it (costwise)
Greek: Running them on soft will only wear them out faster, as the stroke increases…in effect you are making the seals cover a greater distance at higher piston speeds. Have you ever seen a shock dyno for those shocks…not very efficient regarding dampening setting near full soft/hard.
you should change your name to “The Wizard”…shit man how do you know all this stuff :bowdown:
till there bad!
hmm u would think on full soft would be better ya know. What if everything from dampening,spring tension ect is all on soft?
Someone know of a place that does balancing and can set my stuff up properly?
Not on shocks designed for higher rates, you’re essentially underdampening your springs which overworks your shocks…leading to shortend service life.
You mean corner-weighting? If does make quite a difference, but I don’t know of anywhere close that does it, or what their method is. I think someone once told me that Mike, over at Speednation has the scales. Mike is a good guy, although I’ve heard bad stuff about the shop. Maybe someone has positive experience with them can chime in. I repeat mike is a good guy, and an even better hillclimber…
I second all of the above with the exception of the shop rep. I have no idea how good or bad they might be. Only know that Mike is a nice guy and a better driver. I believe they have the scales to corner weight. You might not notice a difference on the street though.
dyingwish- heres a link to what mine look like. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Acura-Legend-Ksport-Kontrol-Pro-Coilovers-CAC08-KP_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33582QQihZ019QQitemZ290150407197QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
now say I have the springs TIGHT and compressed as far as possible by hand on all four corners(possibly making the spring rates go higher?), and the length of the whole thing is as short as it can go. Then dampening for around street is full soft. That would still shorten life? not trying to argue just trying to learn wtf I bought haha
You don’t increase spring rate just by decreasing length. The rate of the spring is already determined so you can’t change that without swapping springs. Your are linear, some are progressive rate. Pre-compressing your spring increases “effective rate” decreasing travel, and requiring higher damping rates to keep the wheel incontact with the road. The damper you purchased is “matched” to that specific rate and can only be changed if you pull the stack washer valve and build it to different spec using different size apertures to get the fluid flow rate you want.
As for your setup, and unfortunatly most JDM shock manufacturers, you have a certain number of “clicks” on your shock. What I was saying before is most of those click do nothing for your dampening rate…if you have 30 available clicks, maybe the middle 10 or so have meaningful changes for dampening rate. The other problem is they are often not repeatable, meaning if you adjust them, then readjust them you will not end up with identical settings, proven time and time again on a shock dyno.
So for your setup, running the damper on full soft makes the whole thing underdamped for the spring rate. This wears out the internals and doesn’t allow the suspension to follow the roads properly. Setting it to full hard does the opposite, overdamping. This means that when the suspension hits a bump the spring can’t push the wheel back town to contact the road, leaving the tire off the ground (or at least unweighted) for a split second. Again poor handling characteristics. I’d keep them somewhere in the 30-60% stiffness setting so you stay in the sweet spot, so to speak.
Let me clarify that I’m not saying the above types of coilovers are junk, they are all decent pieces. Looking at the design from an objective point of view, they have thier flaws. Unfortunately shock that function ideally are way out of most people’s budgets. Moton, upper end Koni, upper end Bilsteins etc…are proven to be more repeatable, reliable, and linear with respect to adjustability than other brands. Remember your suspension (coilover, sway bars, chassis stiffening bars, bushings, etc) work together as a system. The must compliment each other to achieve ideal neutral handling characteristics
“The wizard” strikes back…
haha j/p man
make your own shocks, and make extra parts. Then you’ll never have to worry if they go bad. You’ll have rebuild parts on hand.