You guys realize a clutch for my car to get the job done right is about the same cost as the whole trans/vert combo? And that trans/vert will last and the clutch I have to replace periodically. That on top of the other regular expenses to keep this car maintained is more than I care to spend on a regular basis at this point in my life
well then it seems like you already made up your mind :shrug:
+1 
What’s so about getting faster ET’s, more reliability, and peace of mind of not having to replace parts so often???
LOL obviously quite a bit or else he would not be as on the fence as he is. I can say after driving a few high hp cars aside from super rad launches tooling around town is still much more fun in a 6-sp. Hell my last car never broke a part even at 640rwhp I guess I was just really lucky.
People do huge wheel stands with 5spd 6spd cars…Its a lot easier with an auto usually because the gearing is a lot more aggressive and you get torque multiplication off the line from the stall converter…Also you have the ability to throw a trans brake into the mix.
Go with a Jerico:)
:mamoru:
But I had a reason, you had to push the pedal down to get it to start since it used to be a 5speed.
It was my “homemade” Security System
I asked Carl & Dave about putting a 5/6 speed in my 68 once. Dave replied -God gave you two legs what the fuck would you do with three pedals. LOL
I brought it up due I think he would still have a clutch and be happily driving his car around if there were more times between his runs. Was the clutch not up to tha task of all that power? sure, but It did not have to fail like it did, I think it went mostly due to the extream heat of consistant passes than the sick power he is putting down.
I am not trying to bogger up his thread, I just want to have all the facts on the table that the car did not tear apart the clutch on its own, the heat was most likely a contributing factor.
Good luck with your auto plans. :grouphug:
Btw I’m good on those 13s, I;ll bring over my mid 12 sec slips from last summer if you want. :tup:
Didn’t he say multiple times he didn’t hot lap it?
And no one cars about your mid 12s on a built motor + 100shot :mamoru:
you want all the facts?
christ… since when did you become the master tech. you have no idea what you’re talking about. please stop “giving me advice”. it is not valued.
Bill do what you want man, it’s your car, and its still just a car. Just save the pedal set et al IF you ever want to change back. No big deal, whats a couple more hours of labor on a car you already have 100s into.
Then stop posting. You have no experience with the application. Plain, simple.
Your car would go way faster with an auto. Everyone like a TH400 because you don’t have to spend much, due to it being a heavy duty tranny from the factory. The 4L80E is also nice for the OD, you just have to cut a chunk of the tranny cross-member on the body. I know it would be much more expensive to build the 4l80E especially the converter big $$$. Just don’t get a manual valve body, you have to shift down to go into the next gear instead of up. As far as converter goes get a tight one. Tighter is better for high horsepower because they are more efficient.
Coming from someone that has no experience with F-bods here’s what I think.
You can not (or it would be irresponsible) to test the full ability of your car on the street.
Where are you going to do it? The track of course. Which transmission will be better for the track for your application? Definitely looks like the auto to me.
I don’t think you’ll miss the 6 speed on the street. Maybe if the car was stock you might.
My $.02 take it as you will.
I’m normally against it, but in your case I think the auto would probably be a worthwhile swap. Go for it :tup:
Although I do/did want to see you make the T56/Turbo record I think an auto might be the way to go based on the pricing you set out.
Although my car doesn’t really compare, you could take it for a spin to see what a high stall is like. Its actually pretty fun, especially on spray. I do kinda miss the whole “manual” deceleration sounds though.
Maybe finish this year with a clutch and sleep on the decision over winter? Once you hit your T56 goal, you can feel better next year by smashing it with your new auto and you’ll have something do on it over winter, so you have time to do it right and not rush it out…then again based on what you did this year on your car swapping a trans will be easy.
I also read an article on the 4l80 swaps. Its probably what I’ll do if I decide…ok, when I spray my big motor.
Bill, you’re car wasn’t slipping before that one run, I was watching it and you were still roasting the tires as you went down the track. The one pass when you did the monster clutch burnout was the pass the car didn’t make it back alive. Could it have been caused from the clutch slipping through the 800+ ft/lb in the clutch burnout, and then simply falling apart from the heat?
It was a good 5 - 8 seconds of close to WOT clutch burnout, so that had to have wreaked havoc to the clutch. In my mind, if the clutch was slipping as you were going down the track, it would have been too much power for the clutch, but this still seems like something else.
What do you think?
Stock T56, full weight viper, 1700hp twin turbo, pulls 1.3-1.4 60fts