I have glue/whatever around my sunroof because there used to be a visor that flew off. It comes off if I take it off with my nails but it would take like 5 hours to do that…
Is there anything I can use on it that will get rid of it without harming the paint? Thanks.
Also while I’m posting, I have a quick audio Q… I have an alpine headunit and some aftermarket speakers and when I put it really loud, the headunit like dims a little when the bass hits, what is the cause of this? Is there any way to fix it ?
And on the audio note, it’s most likely your alternator. I’m guessing it’s stock and old, so when you crank your stereo it dims the lights. be carefull with it, if you can afford to replace it do it, other wise don’t crank your system up. It happened to me but as i had subs, it completely fried my alternator and drained the battery. Keep an eye on the battery, if the level starts dropping, it means your alternator is dead and now your entire car is directly running on the battery.
Hey, thanks everyone. I’ll pick up that stuff and get the glue off this weekend :D.
GT-101, you’re right it probably is my alternator since it’s not working properly. Do you think it’s okay if I pick up a used one? Or will the same thing just happen?
How much does a used one cost ? New one? And how much would the labor to install it be?
And how do I check if my battery is dying? My battery light is on all the time (because of my alternator problem, it’s overcharging I think), so how would I check ?
Ya that buzzing sux, if your Batty light is always on then you are falling below 11 volts I think it is, that is not a good thing man, soon your Alt is going to totally go and you are going to have no power while on the Road,
I say if you are going to get a system suck it up and get a good alternator.
I have a 150AMP one and it is great
Benson where did u get your alt and how much? I kno mines going to go soon pumping 3000watts. When its cranked i drop just under 11 while idling. i took out a amp and added two digital caps…not too much notice but i never drop below 12. an altornator will deffinatly help then ill get a battery after. thanks
-Devin
Benson: If the stock one is fine then why did you buy the 150 amp one? And what system are u selling?
Spike: Thanks, I’ll contact u if I decide to get a new one but I might just get it rebuilt.
Enzo: How do you check your voltage ?
Also, can someone help me understand this… I thought ALL an alternator did was charge up the battery while you’re driving. If this is true, then why does it matter if the alternator is not working well? Shouldn’t it have to effect on how the music in the car plays, since that is running off the battery? I mean if the battery dies then yeah I understand it was because the alternator didn’t charge it, but I don’t understand why it would make my lights dim at high volume…
Allright sorry for the late reply. Here’s a quick check, I’ve posted it up several times (maybe it should be a sticky). Anyway, when your car is one with the stereo and all, open the hood and take off the negative terminal, if your car stays on, your alternator is fine. If the car shuts off, the alternator is faulty.
Seems to me the battery should still be good, just replace the alternator asap. Personal recommendation, get a new amp or a rebuilt one, don’t get a used one if you are going to running a system, atleast I wouldn’t rish it. If you were running the stock stereo, I would just pick up a used one. A new one is going to probably run you around $150 (but don’t quote me, they aren’t cheap). If you get a rebuilt one you can actually ask them to increase the amps on it and it’ll be cheaper than a new one from Crappy Tire. The install, I’ve never installed an alternator on a 240 but installed in on a Firefly, easy job maybe 10 minutes. Unfortunately the 240 engine bay is much more cluttered so not sure how long it may take. For your case unless you are going completely insane with your car stereo, I would just get it rebuilt.
Also to answer your question; when the car is running the alternator is generating the power, not the battery, that is why in the test I mentioned you disconnect the battery. If the alternator was providing the accurate power then the car wouldn’t shut down. And if the car shuts down it is because the car was using up the battery’s power and when you disconnect the battery the car shuts off.
Monster, Tsunami, Stinger and the like sells audiophile alternators that go up to 250+ amps
Delco and Bosch have em for racing spec too
you can go another way by getting a rebuilt amp and putting capacitors…i suggest AT LEAST 1.5 farad
…or
iunno if you’ve heard of the company XStatic…they sell these crazy battery/capacitor hybrid shit…like the BatCap 8400 check out the specs: 9600 Amps @ both 12V 14V and 8400 amps @ 16V or the 50 farad 16v MegaCap lol but of course they dont come cheap
That IS the alternators job, but don’t forget that it’s attached via a belt to all your engines pulleys etc (power steering, AC, fan…). When alternator goes, car slowly grinds to a halt and you’re dead in the water. :?
I am running a nice focal/ clarion set up, it is in the FS section
Capacitors really do not offer a hole lot to the car, all they really do is leave more avail power for your amps but they still offer almost the same drain on the car, That capaticer has to get power somewhere and the system is still using the same amount of power.,
