I’m still wondering why you all want to beat the drum. If the e brake was left up the shoes are wedged against the drum. beating the drum should not free it up. you’ll need to unwedge the ebrake pawl(inside the drum) by either shaking the cable untill it moves a little or by de-adjusting it untill you can remove the drum and physically move the linkage. I guess it’s in the realm of possibility that beating it untill it causes enough of a vibration to free it is possible, but its gonna F up the drum and possibly the bearings too.
i got it, just needed a little loving from a BFH. all i did was tap lightly on the exposed drum and it broke free almost instantly
thanks guys
Pull the wheel and drum off and hose everything down with brake cleaner. Then take the adjuster out and get it spinning again and lube. Reassemble and you should be set. Unless the cable itself is frozen (which I doubt since its only been a month).
Your gonna have to do this sooner or later anyway, might as well get it done.
EDIT: You should still take it apart and clean it up. Preventive maintenance if you will.
^ That’s why. 
^ (in a low tone voice from Trading Places) Yeah…
If the car has steelies on it then it is less of an issue to whack away. You don’t want to hit the drum directly… As far as the cable I have seen issues on a lot of older trucks that have the E-brake line on the out side of the frame rail :roflpicard:. But it is typically that the cable siezed inside the sleeving ends. At this point it is easier to cut the fucker and replace it. Most of the internals on a drum usually stay pretty clean unless you keep driving through 10" deep puddles…good point though
Truth…there is always a fine line my friend but it does work.