I’m trying to pull one of the rear drums off of my car to replace a broken stud. I’ve got the center spindle retaining nut off but the drum will not slide off. There is nothing else that needs to be removed. Trying to pry it doesn’t work because the backing is too flexible. tried beating on the edges of it. Putting wheel on and beating/pulling.
Got any more ideas? Things that have worked in the past?
Thinking about trying to grab some sort of puller from Autozone. car is a focus btw.
BFH and lots of patience. Keep hitting, and pulling.
EDIT: also make sure it’s not somthing stupid, like having the e-brake on.
are there any holes on the drums?
there are usually 2 holes where you can screw two bolts and hit it with impact gun to push the drum out…
a screwdriver to pry with and a hammer, first take ur first and hit the drum side to side. if that doesnt work, use the hammer side to side, then try, if not then use screwdriver between backerplate and drum and twist it.
this is a great way to destroy the dust shield. if all your banging and other methods didn’t work, it’s rather unlikely that the thin metal back there will offer enough resistance to coerce the rusted-on drum to separate from the hub. i’d take a hammer on the drum, and keep beating around in a circle - not so hard you bend the hub (it sucks if you do that, i’d know), but enough that - eventually - it will come off.
no no no no no. dude ive dont the focus so many times…its just the one nut in the center. mine came right off, but whenever ive had trouble on others, i put the wheel back on, tighten the lugs hand tight, and then take a sledge hammer or a swift kick to the top edge of the tire to break it free, just make sure the e-brake isnt on and such.
Given up for the night, this will be three missed WNY autox’s in a row. I got a big gear puller from autozone but I need to do some modification to the backing plate to allow the teeth to grab which I don’t really have good tools for. I’m not even sure this puller will fit good enough though.
Back off the e-brake a bit, so the shoes go in a bit and you can get the drum over the groove the shoes created. :tup:
sledge + PB blast + more sledge = win.
when i did my aunt’s brakes (98 or so expedition), the fronts would just not come off… the right side seriously took no less than 50ish hits w/ a full sized sledge. needless to say, she needed new rotors… lol
there should be 2 holes in the drum…u can run bolts thru them and it will slowly back the drum off…if there are no holes…just keep pounding and pulling
I wish I had holes in the drums. I’m about to give up, the only adjustment I can make is the e brake cable tension But I don’t think I feel like it.
why dont you feel like it? its super easy. just pull the boot up in the center console and there is the adjustment right there, it will take you 5 mins. just keep pounding around the edges and try some spray lube like wd40,pb blaster, or liquid wrench.
I did get a 3 jaw puller from them but It can’t grab good enough. I’m not familiar with these tools at all. Can you explain how it works and what attachments are required?
Something like this looks like it may help
Slide HAmmer Flange
or this
Flange Axle FWD Puller
if they could sit on the face of the drum and over the studs.
i take a pry bar and a ig fucking hammer. while i apply force with my body then hit the oppisite side of the drum with the hammer
a little anti-seize on the surface between the drum and hub after this FTW
First, what is it stuck on? If it’s rusted on hub then the BFH (big fucking hammer) advise is good. If it’s stuck because the shoes have worn a grove in the drum and it’s stuck on the shoes, BFH is a bad idea.
On every car I’ve seen with drum brakes there is an adjustment window on the back side. It should be a little rubber plug, around an inch wide by 1/4" tall. Pull that out, get a flashlight, and locate the little gear wheel inside. Turning it one way will back the shoes off. You’ll have to experiment to figure out which way, and I guarantee you’ll be pissed when you work real hard to turn that little bastard and all of a sudden you realize the rotor is on even tighter because you went the wrong way.
There is a special tool that looks like a screwdriver bent into an S for doing this, but I’ve done it with just a regular screwdriver. There is a little arm that you’re suppose to lift up to make the wheel turn easier, but I’ve always had luck just forcing it. If the shoes are what’s holding it on, you’re going to bend the shit out of something if you just try to force it off with a puller.
JayS FTW
i knew there was something we were missing
dude totally do that and you’ll be sitting there having a beer covered with asbestos and rust dust in no time happy as a lark
because everyone knows that larks have huge cocks
^^^fucking lol at joel. the slide hammer and the flange are separate, rent them together, i think it comes to $45, but you get it all back as im sure you know.
:wtf: You were beating the drums off of the front of an expedition? No wonder she needed new rotors. 
I assume you are talking about getting calipers off?
Anyhow, +1 for big fucking hammer and well-placed blows. Can you get the drum to move at all or is it just totally frozen? Because if you’re beating it with a hammer and it’s still frozen you probably won’t be able to do shit with non-impact forces. You need a bigger fucking hammer.