Expedition rotors are a WHOLE other story, I know, I have one. They are machines with practically no clearance around the hub and basicly fuse into a solid piece after a couple winters.
But I’ll say it again. I’ve never had to resort to a BFH or puller to remove a drum. Back the shoes off using the adjuster and a couple light taps with a ball pean hammer should knock it right off.
But the BFH is so much more fun - especially when the car is being a real PITA. It gives you a chance to beat the piss out of it.
oh, yeah - rear discs FTW.
unfortunately there is also no access to the adjuster from the outside of the drum. Maybe I just need to beat on it harder…
re: the expedition - my bad, should have clarified w/ “front rotors”. just wanted to enforce the BFH and repeated hitting argument. (it works!!) if i would have had to BFH the calipers off, that might have been bad news!
again, PB blast toward the inside as much as u can, let sit, hammer, repeat. if it doesnt work, like the guys said, bigger hammer and/or bigger guy. try hitting it from around the sides, and rotate it also… …
I find that hard to believe. How are you supposed to adjust them when you put the new ones on? Maybe I just haven’t seen enough drum brakes.
85 Tercel, 96 Prizm, 92 Tracker, 98 Ranger. Cars/trucks I’ve owned that had rear drums and all had an adjuster hole on the back side of the brake. What kind of car are you working on?
Edit: Ok, this one got me curious, so I looked in your profile and saw it was on 03 Focus. I found this surfing around google groups:
…Also, the preferred method for removing the brake drum is to remove the four bolts on the inside of the backing plate. Then the drum and spindle will pull off in one piece. You won’t disturb the hub nut, nor will you expose the bearings to dirt and debris. This is the method recommended the Ford shop manual.
Also, that big ass spindle nut you took off needs to be torqued to 180 ft/lbs when you put it back on.
there has to be a way to adjust the e-brake…do like focus in progress said…I love disc brakes…
Usually there is a rubber plug over the adjustment hole. It’s tought to see if they havn’t been done in a few years.
actually jayS…the four bolts…are PART of the drum…yes ford IS THAT retarded…the wheel studs are pressed INTO the drum, as in its all one peice, held on ONLY by the large central nut on the spindle. GAY, and also there really ISNT an adjustment hole in the back. only way those shoes are tight enough on that drum is if the ebrake is ON, or the brakes were done VERY recently. if all else fails heat up the drum right at the center around the spindle to break the reaction of it “welding” itself onto the spindle for lack of better words.
holy shit! that’s just a wee bit of twist.
I’ve never not seen a starwheel access hole. it’s probably at top of the rear facing.
Yeah, that’s what I thought when I saw it posted on some google group, which was why I gave him the heads up.
^great tip on that, i didnt torque mine i just used a breaker bar. hrmm, maybe i should check it. SVT rear disc conversion is $800 used off a totalled svt from a junkyard.
I would love to have rear discs right now…Taking a break for a bit. Thanks for all of the suggestions.
yup, knew about that. It surprisingly wasn’t that hard to get off and I’m not a big guy. My torque wrench only goes to 150 so went to that and had to guesstimate from there.
The four spindle bolts may be easier if corrosion is the problem as the whole hub will come off. the problem with them is getting to them though, there is a brake line over the top of one.