I recently acquired a '95 Accord LX V6 for a nice price, knowing that I would be replacing the brakes, tires, some suspension, a sunroof, and the roof liner. I got the back (disc-ABS) brakes OK, but the front rotors were not what I was expecting.
After much research, I now have a lot of instructions that vary slightly. Here’s what’s going on:
I loosened the four outside hub bolts on each side, then retightened them.
I broke the spindle nut on the driver’s side free, then broke two breaker bars trying the passenger’s side. I will try an impact wrench next, maybe some heat, more PB-Blaster, and more persuasion.
I may pop the upper ball joint; it may need replacing anyway. That would allow me to remove the steering knuckle, or-
Perhaps I can pull the axle with the steering knuckle in place
Either way I can access the four bolts on the inside of the hub on each side, then pull the hub& rotor, then change the rotor.I’m looking for comments from any experts out there. It’s not at all like Civic or other year Accords, with the slip-on rotor, so please only respond if you know what I’m talking about.
well u need a slide hammer to. its a bitch to get that hub out sometimes. i learned the hard way on goobers car. u gotta get those bolts out put the ball joint back in the control arm and slide hammer them out. nobody ever wants to do these trust me.
i have a 95 accord, but its the i4 model, i have had the entire front end apart on my car at one time or another, so if you give some pics of what you are having trouble with i may be able to help. the front rotors on this year accord are pressed on, aka the bearing is pressed to the rotor, and unless you have the right tools you may need to have the dealer or a shop do the rotors for you. i unfortunately had to so this as well when i replaced my rotors.
I see statements both ways about whether they are “pressed on” or not. It seems that the Honda dealer and people who didn’t do it themselves insist they are pressed on, while others (some who have done it) say that’s silly.
Looking at the diagrams and reading what I’ve read, I am quite certain they are not. The bearings are pressed together, but you don’t have to disturb that. The rotor can be removed from the backside after the bearings are separated from the steering knuckle. The back flange of the hub and the center opening on the rotor are shaped to pass through.
Anyway I suppose I’ll give it a try today. I’m not looking forward to the wrangling. I also need to acquire ball-joint and slide-hammer kits (HFT or borrow from Autozone). Perhaps this will turn into one of those cases where I feel silly for having worried!
heres a tip for usuing a slide hammer tie a old shirt to the handle and wing it like a bat or golf club this will release more force and hurt ur hands less. fyi its not going to come out easy. i actually did a set of these this morning ironically