af is half the battle timing is where you need to do the tuning
yes but thats not gonna change when you get off of the dyno like the A:F will, I was just saying that if you want to be as accurately tuned on the street as you were on the dyno, your gonna have to find where it makes the best power a:f wise on the dyno, then take it back out on the street and match it to where it performed best on the dyno because most likely its going to be off.
Once u start getting into aftermarket cams, cam timing can be as important as ignition timing. For ex. my car will drop or gain 1 full point in a:f just from giving or taking away 1 degree of overlap w/ the exhaust cam.
So each is more like 1/3 of the battle! (cam, ignition, and fuel)
that is why you need a system with a target AF ratio built in not some half ass free garbage
my car is tuned with half ass free garbage and it runs ok!!!
yeah while it runs. you motor isn’t making enough power to break parts like it does joe so obviously somewhere else is the issue. I know steve knows what he is doin so I would say the system sucks
e.t.>hp!
running reliably>broke or unreliable
you just dig yourself into bigger and bigger holes… his car runs better then yours and you are knocking it? doesn’t make sense to me
Race Race Race
x2
not knocking the car or how it runs at the track. I am knocking the system which he tunes with. how many cars runnin hondata around here have blown up? erics melted a piston because of a bad injector but never because of the tuning of the system.
period point blank is hondata, EMS, power fc>chrome, uberdata
the 1st motor i broke a rod, because i was going like 140 on 43 and it happend,
my second motor spun a rod bearing, because i was revn my shit real real hard,
this motor still runs i have now. for now,
it doesent matter what i tune with, or what i drove or how bullit proof it acually is i will break it, its not like i go out 1nce a week and crush my car everytime i get in it to drive to work ect. i beat the living shit out of it, and people think this is dumb but i love going fast and i dident put it together to look at it,
once i get a “built” motor together and run “real” power, i geuss we will not truely see if this shit acually works,
steves car should be in the 11’s on a chilled night too…
honda is better then chrome no doubt, but the name of the game is going fast with the least amount of money,
i wouldnt say that… FMF’s car is faster. BUT its in a gutted out hatch with lexan windows. Sammys car made more power with a smoother powerband. (according to the dyno sheets i saw anyways)
…if they do essentially the same exact thing, I see no point spending the extra money for big names.
that leads to PewterSS’s comment: “e.t.>hp”
joe goes mid/high 11’s on a 260hp motor. So far JP has gone similar numbers on a ““1000hp”” motor. and ya, you can argue power to weight…but in the end, one car is faster than the other…and if the faster car is doing it on less hp/tq, why spend the mad money?? … mod smarter.
Truth
how is it modding smarter when in the end you go through 4-5 motors?
come on sam, 2 motors!!!
for 200 bucks a pop, and 4 hours worth of work
and beating the shit out of it at every event is way to go,
got a point there
Crome is free and has target A:F ratio! and… its DIY, like K-pro is. We have k-pro so its not like im anti-hondata but i like the DIY feature.
exactly you just paid in motors what I paid for hondata with every available option, 3 bar map, and a P28