I can’t get the f’ing starter out of my '90 735il. I took the coolant expansion tank out, had to disconnect a vacuum line, and I was able to get the 2 bolts out.
but the damn thing still won’t come out. I’ve had at it with a pry bar, I’ve bashed the shit out of it with a hammer, its not budging. I squeezed a little chisel in by the one bolt, but the rest is still not budging.
is there something I’m missing? I mean, it is separated a bit by the one bolt where the chisel is. It only has those 2 bolts. I looked at the new one I have and it only has the 2 bolt holes.
any ideas?
i have to finish this tomorrow, my parents hate me stealing a spot in their garage.
(btw i need to rent a garage lol). car is in the elmwood village area
btw that isn’t the exact starter, but it looks a lot like it. just trying to give a reference. it only has that one bolt hole, and one thats on the other side that you can’t see from that view
lol I had an E32, sweet cars but a nightmare sometimes…
Found this guide to replacing the M30 starter, you probably did everything right but it’s worth a shot to look it over and make sure I guess…
Procedure:
Disconnect battery terminal
Unbolt starter cables that connect to starter solenoid. Remember to label them, VERY useful.
Unbolt the manifold-to-valve cover bracket. The wires around the back of the manifold will be easier to move around.
Unbolt the heater control valve from its bracket so the coolant hoses are easier to move around.
Unbolt the bottom starter bolt with a regular 17mm wrench. This is the easy part.
Unbolt the top starter bolt by inserting the long 17mm wrench BEHIND the intake manifold and down underneath the manifold to the starter bolt. You can see the top starter bolt by looking in between the intake manifold into the “holes” with a flashlight. The airflow sensor may be in the way, but you CAN see the bolt from the top. Make SURE the wrench is snug on the bolt, and PULL! Be VERY careful NOT to round the edges of the bolt. There isn’t a lot of room to move the wrench back and forth, but it will slowly rotate out. Then, try to put your hand BEHIND the manifold, around the coolant hoses (this is where the removal of the heater valve helps move the hoses around), and unscrew the bolt completely.
Remove the starter, being very careful NOT to hit any wires or hoses on it’s way out. I had to move it along and bring it underneath and up around the top radiator hose.
I would assume it’s dead if you’re replacing it, but if not maybe reconnect the battery and flick the ignition? Just enough to get the spiral gear to pop out and maybe dislodge itself since it’s no longer bolted in? Probably won’t work, just trying to think of something since you’ve already tried everything. Otherwise my rule of thumb is if a BFH doesn’t work get a BFH (big fucking hammer -> bigger fucking hammer.)
Of course now it’s tomorrow, so what’d you end up doing?
yah shockwave, I did all that. ended up going to sears and buying a 6 point box wrench for the top bolt because I was scared to strip it. worked perfect. now just gotta get the damn thing unstuck
Looking at the little 1/4" flange on the new one it looks like it seats in there very snug. See if you can get some twisting force on it to break that seal. Pipe wrench, oil filter wrench etc.
That and get some real penetrating oil, not WD-40. WD-40 is, as the name suggests, basically just a water dispersant. Thrust works good, as does PB Blaster. If you know someone who has some Aero Kroil that stuff > *. Not sure what sensitive areas are near by, but if you can try hitting it with some heat first, then the penetrating oil.
Autocrossing that 18 year old northern climate Fiero for 4 years has given me way too much experience with seized parts.
Andre, there is a small flange if you look STRAIGHT DOWN on the top of it, get a long screwdriver and start pounding it down in there, it will eventually release. I can help you Saturday morning with it if you need help, but I’m not back in town till then as I’m off doing a track day and hopefully finishing up the 5.
Andre, there is a small flange if you look STRAIGHT DOWN on the top of it, get a long screwdriver and start pounding it down in there, it will eventually release. I can help you Saturday morning with it if you need help, but I’m not back in town till then as I’m off doing a track day and hopefully finishing up the 5.
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mike, what flange are you referring to?
and the starter is completely dead for those who mentioned that the gears may be stuck
well my dad had a carpentry tool to pull nails, with a 90 degree break in it. was just short enough to wedge between the block and starter without hitting the abs control module.
then put another pry bar on the starter right past where the solenoid meets. would hit the 90 degee pry bar to jar it one way, then the other bar to get it the other. Finally got it so there was a gap, so I squeezed another pry bar between the starter and bell housing. Hammered that down in there a bit, and put a big pipe across the firewall. Hit that pry bar to push the starter out, and eventually it came free
