I failed my emissions big time

I don’t think the walbo pump will contribute enough to fail the test. Definetly get a new cat and fix your tps problem and check your timing. When I did my e test on my sr I was also told I could not run it under hot rod so they did the test under regular 240sx specs. My car passed with no problems under 240sx specs I was very surprised.

I remember checking the FSM for the TPS for someone here… when you are off the throttle, it should read 0V (not 0.5, 0.2 or anything like that)… and max it can read is whatever the supply voltage is… in this case it’s 5V or so…

if the ECU is getting 5V constantly from your TPS, it basically thinks you are on WOT all the time, therefore dumping more gas in there…

change the TPS and it should run fine.

oh and don’t forget a new CAT… btw, your S14 has the real cat right at the exhaust headers… basically on the downpipe. The “cat” that’s below your drivers seat is really a resonator and it is empty. It’s only coated with platinum.

So if you took your stock downpipe out, you also took the cat out and only left the resonator on.

edit: the stock S14 downpipe from Nissan is 811 bucks… and yes, there’s differences between the Zenki & Kouki ones (cuz of the secondary O2 sensor bung that’s on them… it’s right before the end of the downpipe where the flange is).

If you want an aftermarket downpipe, then buy a real cat and replace your resonator. It’ll bolt right up with the right flanges on. That’s probably the cheapest way of fixing this.

i’d say is the cat.

Even better, while you got space up there, get the guy to flange your cat and res so you can run double cats. Just test pipe everything when you’re in street trim

ya ive already changed my cat, the one that was on tehre was empty lol. It helped quite a bit, it doesnt smell as gassy.

So now i just wanna fix the idle problem so my car is running how i want it to be. So ill try to get a new tps or fiddle with the one i already have.

Anyother high idle prob suggestions are welcome.

thx,
logan

to get it tested as a hot rod you need a letter from a mechanic at a nissan dealership stating that the motor in your vehicle is not a fatory equipped motor in north america.
The guy i went to didn’t know what i was talking about, but wrote it anyways. Thats what i got at least. Just go into nissan and ask at the front counter, you might need to make an appointment tho. But shouldn’t cost anything. I also failed my first etest. Put in a koyo rad, and the etest guy said it passed better than most vehicles. Maybe you are running too hot, or timing is a bit off.

you can pass without a catayytic convertor, but wont pass the visual pass if they do one :slight_smile:

fix the timing/fuel issue, or youll just have a plugged up cat in the near future

Hey Kyle… I’m going throu this BS now too and even knowing the dude @ the emissions place isnt helping because the government requires “proper” paper work now when you say your engine is a “hotrod” they need to attach proof from the Dealer that the motor indeed was never sold in north america.

I called Waterloo Nissan the head of the Service department told me shes had to do this once before for someone else and will indeed do it for me. I just have to take my car down there along with Ownership and they will then sign off saying that the SR20DET was never sold in North America and there for can be legally tested as a hotrod.

Just installed my catt like 1hr ago… going to nissan in 30 mins then my emissions test is tomorrow @ 11am so I’m keeping my fingers crossed :smiley:

haha jedi, i’m pretty much in the exact same boat as you! Picking up my slip tomorrow and then getting it e-tested.

lemme kno how it goes guys. good luck brah(s)

you too! did you end up passing yet or what?

Well I passed no problems at all… the readings were actually so low that it would have passed normally as if it still had the KA24DE in it so I was quite suprised.

thats awesome man, did u use an safc to lean it out? or was it 100% natural lol?

mostly just “factory” setup…

I havent had any time to install my wideband or my safc2 to even see what the AFR is like to begin with. I used the 02 sensor that came with the motor from Japan “so who knows how old it is” I have the Charcol can hooked up properly and I installed a brand new Catty yesterday.

hey jedi, can you post your numbers? I failed today.

HC ppm limit: 318 reading: 108…Pass
CO% limit: 2.52 reading: .53…Pass
NO ppm limit: 3353 reading: 4325…fail

curb idle
HC ppm limit: 300 reading: 150…Pass
CO% limit: 1.50 reading: 1.13…pass
NO pmm limit: N/A reading: N/A

:frowning: Got it tested as a hotrod status too

yes i also failed

HC PPM Limit Reading Result
64 117 FAIL

CO % .35 1.95 FAIL

NO ppm 485 56 PASS

Passed the whol curb idle test but I think its my CAT mayb some other shit

someone get me a fake test lol

Here are my #s

HC ppm limit: 318 reading = 55…Pass
CO% limit: 2.52 reading = 0.12…Pass
NO ppm limit: 3353 reading = 1024…fail

curb idle
HC ppm limit: 300 reading = 35…Pass
CO% limit: 1.50 reading = 0.00…pass
NO pmm limit: N/A reading = N/A

According to the guy I know where I go… high CO% means your Catty is pouched. He also said reason mine was 1024 and not lower like it should be is because I have a 3’’ high flow ceramic core cat and apparently they dont do as much for “emissions” as a normal flow cat or what not.

If You Think Your TPS IS Pooched, Grab A Multimeter And Do A Resistance(Ohms) Test. You Should Have Very Low To No Resistance At Idle Position, And Tons At Full Throttle. I Could Be Wrong And Its The Other Way Around. Ethier Way, You Should Have High And Little To None At Each End Of The Spectrum.

See that’s why when I made my exhaust I made provisions so that I can double up w/2 cats. My resonator can be removed and in place of it I can put on another cat. So I got cat 1 and cat 2, pass w/flying colours everytime. In street trim I just put on a fake cat and a test pipe. In track trim I just unbolt everything.

update…
I have adjusted the TPS to what the voltages should be at, and it has changed nothing at all. The idle is still at 1500 after warm up, and the idle screw is all the way down.

I don’t know what else to do to get this idle down. plz help

thx,
logan

i’ve been contimplating doing the whole timing thing with the valve cover off and stuff.

Any pointers so i don’t mess my motor up?

thx,
logan