Like said earlier: Yes and No.
It helps to loosen up the flow value of the parts (Intake, Header, Exhaust) but there will be a point where its too wide and you start to loose that flow and you have excess flow. This will cause decrease (too much space to move, not enough time) fuel mileage and power.
But in the end, if you mash your pedal, kiss that fuel goodbye…
cool thanks.
haha back on topic. yah i probably wont destroy my engine for a new one, i dont think it sounds good when u sell it. there going to think you shit kicked the car if they know nothing about the spec v(precat and butterflys).
Well about “breaking in” your engine you actually want to drive it harder for the first bit. Make sure you seal the rings in your piston. If not you dont get a perfect seal. Best way to do it is take it on a dyno, but no one has money for that so you can just go on the high way and put it in 4th and do like 2-5k pull, then like a 4-redline pull and then a couple 2-redline pulls. Ive had some friends who have had lots of engine problems with the rsx type-s because they were babying it and wouldnt use the i-vtech until like 5000k. Most were seal problems and pressure issues.
Other people who buy bikes and quads dont really have problems cause they run them hard the second they get them anyways lol.
hmm never thought that… i think even in the owners manual, it says not to rev it higher then 3000rpm and never floor it for the first 3000km. then your all good to go.
Well it says in the owners manual to do that, but thats just what i heard from many of my dads friends that have building, testing and racing engines most of there lives. Aswell as after my friend got a new engine for his rsx, he drove it very solid (not hard), and didnt baby it at all and it works excellent even at 80k now, runs perfect. From before when he baby’d it to the limit with mass oil changes, it was having problems at 30/40/50k.
cool bud, good to know. thanks
Again, it could be different with newer nissan engines, because most of the guys have older (and newer but mostly older 15+ years) so it could be different, but the theory is all the same. But rsx’s are newer engines and the pressure is near perfect in the pistons. So i wouldnt race it, but i wouldnt be scared of trying to make an aggressive pass and having the rpms jump a lil high.
Ya, I read in the owners manual about not going over 3K rpm, but Ericcsen Nissan said not to baby the car as well. Drive it how I would normally drive it and keep the revs varied, but don’t race it or run hard to redline.
And it sounds good!!! Very happy with the Nismo/Apexi WS2 combo. When driving slowly you can barely tell thats it not stock, just seems a little bit deeper but most people wouldn’t tell. As the revs go up gets louder but never sounds too much or ricey.
I haven’t done WOT or gone over 5000 rpm, but I feel the engine is much more responsive, very lively, quicker to rev.
However, how much of that is attriutable to header/exhaust and how much to new engine I couldn’t tell you…
Congrats… As for the break in the Spec V will respond better to a harder break in… Not meaning take it to the redline every time. Don’t baby it, remember constant revs are bad, and try to take it through the rev range constantly. Just don’t drive it like stank. Also do a oil change soon. Your response from the engine is most likely because the engine is new. The and exhaust would of most likely would of added more high end HP than anything else.
I agree, because I said almost the exact same thing on the first page.
Babying or lugging the engine is bad news on a break-in. You don’t race it, but you don’t drive it for 3 hours straight at 2500 RPMS either.
Yah going from a different kind of driving is the best for the break in. Going from 2-5, then 3 - 7, in a lower gear, just dont hold it anywhere, cause you arnt trying to run your car hard, just trying to seal the piston rings, if they dont seal properly cause you are driving 20 under the speed limit all the time never revving, you might have to replace the rings.