bing
November 19, 2009, 5:18pm
1
EDIT:
I sold the second motor and had a serious buyer cancel out on the sale of the car:
Car is currently registerd, plated and insured. There is currently nothing wrong with the car, it starts and drives hundreds of km’s at a time without issue.
$11k OBO takes it.
Will seriously consider trades + cash for a nice winter car (approx $5k, like a 02 Maxima or something)
As it stands i’m planning on storing both of my 240sx’s for the winter.
However, it has occured to me that i should put the coupe to market and see what it will bear.
As a whole package: Car, both motors, including the CCW’s and all the extras we’re talking $1X,000 for sure in the teens… however, i don’t expect that to happen.
I am willing to sell the built block separately and i am willing to KEEP some things off the coupe if you want to make it more affordable (AEM, CCW’s, GTR Seats etc.) but WILL NOT PART anything off the car . If no one wants it i will simply race it again next year.
It is currently licensed, insured and driven sparingly.
Alot of guys are trying to build something like this… It goes without saying that it is cheaper to buy something already built and change up a few things afterwards.
1991 Nissan 240sx coupe
5spd, HUD, all power, moon-roof
Painted Subaru WR Blue (paint code 02C)
S13 SR20DET blacktops (both)
Fully reharnessed
Car was aligned, height-adjusted and corner-balanced by Can-alignment and runs full-time on track alignment… drives to and from the track without issue.
Inside: Current motor
Apexi HG seal sprayed
ARP headstuds
HKS Step 1 Cams
256 intake
264 exhuast
Otherwise internally stock
324whp @ 14psi
Outside:
K&N big intake kit
Garrett GT2817R .64 a/r turbo charger (freshly resealed from Precision Turbo)
Taka turbo lines
Stainless gaskets
Block to Manifold
Manifold to turbo
Turbo to elbow
Stainless manifold – heat wrapped
ARP manifold studs x 9 (turbo to manifold, turbo to elbow)
Stainless 3” turbo extension’
Stainless 3” downpipe
Stainless 3” resonated testpipe
Reinhard Semi-titanium catback (the best you can buy)
Greddy VSPL FMIC kit
Polished 2.25” hotpipe
Greddy Type-S bov (the real deal and still chirps)
Deatchwerks 650cc injectors (discontinued)
Chromed SR20DET intake manifold
Polished valve cover
Splitfire coilpacks
BKR6E plugs
Koyo radiator
Samco hoses
SARD water temp bung
Nismo engine and tranny mounts
ACT stage 3 sprung street strip clutch
Unknown lightened flywheel, 11lbs approx, balanced.
Bings cooling panel
Walbro high-flow fuel pump
Bings Shortshifter
Oil Catch Can
Polished aluminum pullies
Polished valve cover
Bings coolant overflow reservoir
Bings billet oil cap
Bings vented coil pack cover
Battery relocated to trunk
Lots of stainless braided heater hose lines
All worm-gear clamps replaced with T-bolt clamps, all couplers are 4-ply silicone. Couplers in and around the turbo are re-enforced silicone.
Electronics:
AEM EMS with Map sensor
Apexi AVC-R Boost controller (installed, but not hooked up, wire frayed on solenoid so I removed it)
AEM Uego wideband
DEFI gauges (boost, water temp, oil pressure)
DEFI link controller
Footwork:
Z32 TT 30mm calipers - aluminum
Hawk HP+ pads front and rear
Z32 BMC
Z32 rear brake conversion + functioning e-brake and all new gear inside)
Brembo rotors – blanks – front
Zinc coated, slotted rotors - rear
NON-ABS
Teflon coated stainless conversion lines front and rear
STANCE GR+ 8/6
DC sports front and rear non-adjustable strut bars
Bings spin turn knob
Bings Tension Control Rods
Bings adjustable rear upper control arms
Bings adjustable toe arms
Bings adjustable Traction arms
Bings full aluminum subframe spacers
Bings Rear cross brace
Tein Inner Tie rods
S14 spec Outer tie rods
Subframe removed, sand blasted, painted in hot pink and then clear coated
SPL rear multi-link bushings x 6 ($75 each)
ATS carbon 1.5 way differential in S14 housing with Nismo diff bushings
Attain 5 lug hubs front
ARP extended studs ½ x 20 pattern
R32 skyline rear 5 lug hubs with new OEM bearings
ARP extended studs 12 x 1.5 pattern
Front - Custom 30mm Bings adapters, hub-centric to hub and wheel
Rear – 10mm spacers (Bings)
CCW Classic
17 x 9.5 front
17 x 10.5 rear
RT615 front 245/45/17
FK452 275/40/17
Aero
Bings aero lip
180sx type sideskirts (not on car at present)
Bings silvia rear valances (not on car at present)
Bings aero-wangan wing (flat black)
Chuki amber/clear signals
USDM grilles
Red / clear tails, spray tinted
Rolled and pulled rear fenders
Interior:
Skyline GTR seats
OEM Heads up display
Stereo removed
Chassis Condition:
There are no holes anywhere along the frame of the car or in the floor of the car.
The paint around the sunroof is bubbling but there is no rust popping through yet.
In the driver side wheel well where the hardline pops through the body of the car the hole is expanded from corrosion (brake fluid leak at some point). This is the only hole anywhere on the car.
There was a rust hole in the trunk of the car but it was cut out and the same panel was cut from another identical car and welded in.
The front bumper cover and fenders are misaligned, not do to impact necessarily, but I did off the car at full speed at Dunnville a couple times and tweaked the bumper / fender mounts… The front bumper is stitched together with zipties in various places.
Engine bay is painted black by previous owner. The car’s initial color appears to have been white.
bing
November 19, 2009, 5:19pm
2
HAHA, the mod list was actually over the character limit so i had to cut out some stuff…
here are the specs on the built block:
Inside: Built Motor
Arias forged pistons, ceramic coated tops and skirts
Arias rings and wrist pins
Eagle Con-Rods
Cometic metal Headgasket – buttons removed, separated and seal sprayed
ARP head studs
ARP main studs
Bings Rocker arm Stoppers
Balanced crank to the flywheel
Block honed and bored .020 over for pistons
Block and Head decked
Ceramic coated combustion chambers
All OEM Nissan bearings with the proper grades
Every single gasket in the motor is brand spanking new
HKS cams removed and installed into current motor
Motor is sitting on an engine stand in my garage… it ran fine but had an oil pressure issue so I took the motor out before any major loss and have not had it inspected as I do not really have the means of moving the motor around on my own.
also, in the motor pic above there is a CS coolant resevoir and a Type RS bov, both of those were changed in favour of pieces listed in the mod list above.
there are certainly things missing from that list but when you get this deep into things you can’t remember everything obviously.
ill give you my soul… lol its a good deal …fine u drive a hard bargain you can have my wife and first born but im keeping my second he’s cool
bing
November 20, 2009, 5:18am
4
is your first born a boy?
pics of wife too please. and does she cook and clean?
kollo
November 20, 2009, 6:28am
5
^she cooked for me many times first born is a boy
*edited by bing - lets keep it clean with respect to family
bing
November 20, 2009, 6:58am
7
^edited your post a bit
with respect to the built motor since i’m getting questions on it; the head was never modded and the oil pressure issue was likely up there… so refreshing the head would yield a solid block. the head has over 120,000km’s on it without being refreshed and it also had the HKS cams in it.
i had 5000+ km’s on that motor and it ran fine. it was simply that when the car got really hot, like when i was in bad traffic or something, the oil pressure would drop below comfort level. i removed the motor and put a really really fresh and low mileage motor into the car this past summer.
the motor was built by New Generation on hwy 20 in Niagara Falls.
yes she cooks and cleans first borns a boy and hes a little wrench monkey … so we have a deal lol
Martino
November 20, 2009, 10:18am
9
Bing, trade me for my 180
bing
November 20, 2009, 10:39am
10
umm… no… why would i trade this car for a slower one that has way less money into it?
my AEM EMS + Uego, Defi gagues + AVCR, Stance coils, GT2871R, ATS 1.5 way, z brakes all around and the CCW’s are over $10k to replace alone…lol
Martino
November 20, 2009, 11:35am
11
umm… no… why would i trade this car for a slower one that has way less money into it?
my AEM EMS + Uego, Defi gagues + AVCR, Stance coils, GT2871R, ATS 1.5 way, z brakes all around and the CCW’s are over $10k to replace alone…lol
It’s simple.
You just should
bing
November 21, 2009, 7:21pm
13
I have a serious offer on the wheels if someone wants the car without them to make it more affordable.
wont sell them if i keep the car though
Pants
November 21, 2009, 7:33pm
14
pm me broski price on aem ems and uego
bing
November 21, 2009, 8:07pm
15
depends on if the guys i am talking to want to keep it…
no point in talking about it atm to be honest…
would like to find someone to buy the built motor.
MPD47
November 22, 2009, 2:36am
16
I want to buy this so badly… stupid 350z!
bing
November 22, 2009, 6:30am
17
haha shut up… when was the last time you only had one project?
MPD47
November 22, 2009, 9:19am
18
Many many years ago, until now of course.
was that real fire coming out of your exhaust in the first pic? GLWS.