input wanted, i'm clueless

NYSpeed Automotive
1

i’m haveing some issues with my white neon
started with the o2 sensor wire grounding out on the axle
it ended up melting some wires leading to the ecu and fuse/relay box
i cut out all the melted wires and replaced the harness
when i turn the key to the on position, the check engine light normally comes on… but for some reason its not (bulbs fine)
it’ll crank but not start
its getting some fuel in the fuel rail i’m not sure if its enough pressure
i replaced the ecu… nothing changed

any ideas?

2

may have cooked the ecu, or more wire issues somewhere else

edit I just saw you put in another ecu

Are you sure the ecu is fine?

3

Check relays, may have burned one up when the wires crossed

4

also if your not sure if its enough fuel check your fuel pressure and see if its up to spec. and like kingsario said could be more bad wires somewhere …do some searching

5

it could be a wireing issue… but i think everything looks like good connections
i’m pretty sure relays and such are fine

what would cause the check engine light not to light up

o and a snap on scan tool cant make a connection to the ecu

6

when you say cant make connection do you mean its not even seeing the ecu? if thats the case check ecu connections again make sure its plugged in all the way and your positive that the ecu is good? if not find a buddy to borrow his ecu and see what happens good luck

7

i looked over all the connections, and they looked ok (i used butt connectors) and i even bought a ecu from someother guy on neons.org
so i know its not the ecu now
i’ll recheck the wireing tho

8

sometimes o2 codes will nto appear right away u need to run your car for a while.
Also ur ecu may be fried

9

the ecu isnt fried

the check engine light normally just comes on for a breif second when you turn the key to the on position… which it doesnt now

10

maybe when u replaced the fried wires, u did something right? :gotme:

11

no because the light has to do that from the factory as it’s actually part of inspection.

12

i would still be checking that “new” ecu

13

What did I say 4 months ago about that car. Anyways, to provide some more insightful comments now.

Make sure the ECU is getting power get a list of pin outs, test for voltage, make sure there is no/next to no resistance on the grounds. Depending on where the ECU is mounted you may want to get a new harness from the junkyard if possible (unless it runs through the firewall). If anything after the eclipse’s wiring, and saturns tranny cooler is fixed, I’d be willing to give it a shot.

Also check your ECU relay/contacts/wiring, seeing as there was issues with the fuel pump relay prior. (Corrosion, then later flaming wires, and what ever else might have occured )

If anything try “hot-wiring” the ECU (WARNING: ONLY DO THIS IF YOU ARE CONFIDENT IN DOING SO*). As well as the grounds also.

EDIT: And just like home computers, it’s entirely possible to get a bad part new. If possible try it in another neon to verifiy it.

*Not responsible for loss of limbs, fire, explosion, pointy objects, cuts, burns, nuclear fission, more toasty plastic fun, decapitation, sore thumbs, limp wrists, flat tires, angry neighbors, unmowed lawns, fuzzy cheese, rice, etc. However if it does result in a positive outcome (ex. World peace, alternaive fuel source, turbo, florida breaking off from the US) I will gladly take credit. :tup:

14

Dude get another harness. i rem seeing/ghetto rigging ur car in the winter cuz ur battery cable was so corroded it just snapped.

Also do u hear ur fuel pump when u turn it on? Is therre any other way of gettin codes off that bish.
Im not too famuliar with ur car. does it use the mitsu electronics? I know with those u can pull codes using a multimeter jumping pins 12 and 1.

Devin- i just bought a wideband; gimme a call or pm me some weekend so we can see if that tweecer works with my ecu.

15

that was on my R/T that had the problem with the battery cable
i think i heard the fuel pump turn on… i’m gonna check a few things later

16

well i know the harness itself is okay, i gave him the one from my 95 shell which ran fine right up untill the rod went through the block, the ecu in my shell was fine and i know this cause its in this kid from springvilles neon now.

as far as the problems joes neon is having, originally it would misfire like hell, so i took off the injectors and fuel rail, drove it around for a good hour the next day goin wot half throttle and so forth no misfiring.

on our way back up the 219 car just stalls, kept blowing the fule pump fuse, so someone who shall remain nameless had a bright idea of putting a wire in the fuse slow, that burned up all the wires…so i then gave joe my harness(which i am going to need for the 2.4 joe!!!) he wired everything back together and fixed the o2 sensor wire and the car now turns over and such but doesnt fire, when u push in the valve on the fuel rail it doesnt “spray” out, just comes out at a very low pressure. so he put the “updated” ecu in and it does the same. devon get ur ass over there, wiring is yucky :lol:

i personally think its the fuel pump wiring or the fuel pump itself, if it grounded out somewhere, that would give him the issue perhaps??? ill have to grab a testlight and check the wires at the fuel pump

17

sounds like a 5v sensor +
check the + to the crank and cam position sensors. I think there’s a common 5v between those and the + to the 2 O2 sensors. Been a while though so I could be wrong.

18

there are 2 important relays in a chrysler product for starting. You need to che the A.S.D.(auto shutdown) relay. This relay powers up tyhe ecu and also powers the fuel pump relay. If your CEL doesn’t bulb check then the ECU isn’t turning on. It’s usually the ASD relay on chryslers provided the wiring is fine.

19

i dont think that relay is bad because it didnt work with the orginal or the one from the shell… but i’ll put one from my r/t in there to see if thats the problem

20

anyone feel like comeing over and helping out… my dad wants it out of the driveway soon