HARNESS CAME IN!
MOTOR CAME IN!
Now I just need to do some wrenching to replace ~20 gaskets, some studs, do some maintenance, spark plugs, oil, etc. And I should be good to drop the motor into the car.
This is the first time I’ve gotten this “deep” into working on a car.
First time doing the bodywork, first time stripping a car clean,
First time working on a motor to this extent… it’s a steep learning curve.
MOTOR!
A 1986 VG30ET with 92k original miles. No problems other than a leaky valve cover. With these motors, the problem areas are the exhaust manifold gaskets and the valve cover gaskets. On this motor, both needed to be replaced due to small leaks, however I would want to replace these anyway because I would like to clean up the valve covers (shine up that red color!) and have the exhaust manifolds “easy” to remove when needed.
The cool thing about this motor is that it’s from an AUTO zx, so it come with a clutch cooler and an oil cooler, both which didn’t come with the Manual cars. So, I’ll have the benefit of extra cooling parts without needing to go aftermarket. I just need to ditch the auto flywheel for a proper m/t one, and change the bushing/bearing.
The hairdryer
First thing I did was ditch the Air conditioning. I may regret it later with summer coming up, but the lines in the engine bay were cut anyway so that would be more money out of my pocket to get it working rather than just hooking it up again. Removing it makes the motor look cleaner anyway. (and shaves a few pounds…. Power/weight yo!) plus I have T-Tops!
Bolts and Nuts that have been sitting untouched for ~30 years (motor is an ’86, ar is an ’84) really need some “convincing” to be removed…and now I see why it’s sort of a given that you need to replace the studs on the exhaust manifold after you remove it for the “first” time…. All but 3 of them came right out. Luckily none broke, and the only bolts I stripped were ones that are easily replaceable.
Due to my inexperience and the lack of organization of my friends’ tools, it took me ~4 hours to remove a few things from the motor. This included spraying PB blaster + waiting, searching for the right extension, staring and trying to figure out what needs to get removed first in order for the thing behind it to be removed…
However, I’m glad I stripped it all down.
All the gaskets should be in by Friday, and I should have them replaced, new plugs in, new timing belt/tensioner and hopefully all other motor “stuff” finished by this weekend, including the harness wiring. Hopefully I can even attempt to drop the motor into the car by this weekend!
BODY!
As for the car itself: ready for paint/dip
Going with an Aluminum/black two tone with silver metallizer gloss topcoat.
factory look with a little bling. Sort of like the GTR super Silver w/ black on the bottom.
Sprayed some aluminum on the headlight cover/fender to test it out. It should look great with about 4 more layers and some silver metallic flake.
Plastidip gallons cost a lot more than I thought, but it’s still cheaper than getting the car painted. After all, this is sort going to be a drift car/car to tinker with. However, after masking the car all up and preparing for paint, I found out it would cost me $500 to get it dipped “professionally” so I said “screw it” and I’m going to do it myself. We have a compressor in the shop anyway, I just need a regulator and paint gun with a 1.7-2.0 nozzle. (I know it sounds “easy” but we shall see)
For Dip materials in the color I want, it is still about $300. Maybe I’ll hold off until after the motor is in since there are still things I need to purchase (plugs, fluids, etc)
The parts for the Kouki front in came in, but one of the headlights is cracked and I need to wait for a replacement. The hood also needs some body work. I may hold off on these for now until the car is running since I would rather devote time to that.
I also haven’t even begun to work on the modified rear bumper w/ license plate recess, although I have everything I need to get it done. Again, I’d rather devote my time to getting it running
So, how the car sits while I’ve been wrenching away at the motor:
dat bondo
cut out the rusty section. There was much less rust through the metal than I cut, but at least the rear valence covers this area :-/
kouki bumper:
PERFORMANCE PLANS
As far as plans for the car, popular upgrades are Holset HX35 turbos “relocated” to a top mount location for cooling / awesomeness. However, that’s another ~300 in piping (ss) then the downpipe needs to be altered, another ~$300. For now, I just want to get her running, so it may be best to use the factory turbo in the factory location and turn the boost up a bit with a manual boost controller. I have an intercooler for it (plus the oil cooler!) , so this should be good for ~9-13 safe psi now until I have the money to throw at aftermarket goodies. Plus the stock ECU map doesn’t really handle boosting over 13psi, - the car will run too lean. This should set me at approx. 275hp at the wheels with an open downpipe.
The goal now is to do maintenance, drop the motor in, and get it running. The car needs to be running for the aftermarket goodies to do anything, anyway.
So, this is where the project stands. Tearing down the motor, waiting for parts to arrive, but still trying to hurry this along to get it running very soon.
Unfortunately, this week is a little busy at school so I’ll probably only get 1 day in besides the weekend. This gives all the parts time to arrive, however.
