K20 weight vs. B18 weight

There roughly around 6k for the swap. hopefully after I graduate I can put on in a 5th gen hatch and turbo it!

ah, good point. didn’t think of that one :bigthumb:

As far as the launch is considered, if you have problems launching a little 220hp car, then there are other things you have to worry about. Say you are over 400hp, then i’d be more concious of more equal weigh distibution…and even then, ballast it.

problem with h22’s is they are a shitty motor to work on, and they dont fit perfect into civics. Ask alot of people with the swaps, when i see somoene at the track with them you can ask them and they say they go through an axel a month.

Another thing is wants you start running alot of boost the ringlands go on them easily, need rebuilt if u want to run more than a few psi. (talking in general, from experieces ive read about and are well known on H-t)

As far as k20 going 14’ in an EF, if so u need to shoot the fucker cuz people are putting them in EG’s with just I/H/E and tuning and hitting high 11’s. (slicks of course)

Back to your question about weight. the K20 is about 70-75lbs lighter than a b series block. can’t remember where i read that but i believe i got it off of k20a.org

I’m guessing that is weighing a long block…not just a bare block.

All that is typical H-T jabber. I’ve talked to a few educated people who do H’s and say they haven’t had the problems that lurk through H-T. Soon once I get my life together, I’m going to start doing more H’s just so I can prove people wrong… one thing is making a balance shaft removal kit…

I still think the K20A is the way to go compared to a H22.

dont think so. you cant even compare the two because one only costs 3x’s the amount as the other. then you gotta buy the damn mounts to drop the k series in, but then i hear its still a big pain in the ass to do. then if you really want to get serious with the k-series and want to tune it with a hondata or another kind of stand alone, tuning the vtec is a pain in the ass because there are different variables for different rpms in the vtec powerband(i use the word “power” loosely)

so in other words…h22,buy a set some somewhat decent axles, do basic bolt on’s and have yourself a somewhat cheap, and fun car to drive that has the ability to run a 12 second pass with a set of slicks.

The H22 most def. would be the most economical motor for the price but sounds like gearhead got a little bit of money to spend. K20 I/H/E for bout 12’s id pay the extra money.

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

my account is -$81 today…sooooo no

h22 with i/h/e is all about 12’s. i mean crap there was a 5th gen hatch that had a h22 done at hybrid with NOTHING done to it whatsoever and it wasnt even really running right went 13.5@105 plus shitty tires.

sorry but the k series swap is nothing but hype. i’d rather take that 6k and do something else with it, like light it on fire before i wasted my money on that swap.

fag. :slap:

dear god yes