K20 weight vs. B18 weight

The word on honda-tech is the K20 is lighter than any B swap. Although, i have yet to accumulate hard proof of this. Also, im not going to go get the swap to weigh it myself…if only that residual cash grew on trees :nuts:

So if anyone has known of or seen any real world weights to prove that the K20’s are lighter than B’s, then i might settle my grudge and do one in an EF or something.

come on your dirty sluts… im going to just post on honda-tech in a bit.

A local shop in NC weighed them I believe and said the same thing though I dont remember the weights. Hasport started making K-series mounts for Ef’s. I know thats not alot of help but its better then nothing. :slight_smile:

O’ and yous a balla if you go with the k series.

K20A2 owns j00!

k20 swaps are spawns of the devil…

fawk, if they really are lighter than maybe i will look into it. The only way that i’ll do it is in another stripped down EF b/c thats just cool…ok, not really.

i looked at this site, but didnt find any info, maybe its on there somewhere. or you could always contact them

k-series swaps just don’t seem practical…too much friekin money, especially to put in a shitbox 4th gen

I agree totally.

in theory the motors with accessories weight the same but when you get rid of ac and ps which you have to to put a k in any other chasis you would lose the weight and they do also have advantages for handling the weight is more evenly distributed since the k’s sit on the passanger side as opposed to all the b,k,d,f series sitting on the driver side

if i had the 4-5 k’s to do the swap my civic would sure have one in it cant beat droping a motor in to a civic and running low 14’s

just my 2 cents

well… i’d say no b/c since the motor is backwards (intake in the front/exhaust in the back) that pushes the entire setup more forward hurting the total weight distribution. An H22a for example leans back instead of forward like a B helping it just a little in compinsating for the H22’s weight over a B.

If i had 5k to do a swap, i’d spend 2500 on bolting an h22a in, and 2500 boosting it…then it would go 12’s instead of 14’s. Thats just my $.01

I have a k motor in my Civic.

But it came that way…

it being on the other side is good for the weight dist.,but it only matters if you’re autoX’ing. for drag, the motor has little, if any, advantages over an h22. personally, i’d take a turbo b18b for the that price any day :smiley:

im still for boosted h22’s. it seems its easier to get over 400whp on a boosted h22a than it is to put your socks on in the morning.

tis true.

H22 is 2500 for the motor not including mounts, exhaust, etc…that is a 4000 dollar swap once it is all said and done. and the H22 has some WEAK cylinder walls

really…

guess gearhead & I lucked out

i paid 4000 for mine,

o yea by my stuff

closed deck

well, if thats the best you can do to get an h22 in a hatch, then more power to you…

agreed, the walls are weak, but I’ve seen more success than problems.

I’d think having even front corner weights would help the launch considerably.