sigh, im not even going to bother arguing. You do what you think is right. When your turbo’d stock KA blows after you let it rip, then you’ll understand my point.
Oh and btw, I don’t do ghetto, I Macgyver that shit. :/:
^ I’ll keep that in mind, thanks brother! 
I’m with Hacknik on this one…
Gurpreet, just because you edged me out on buying sidewayzmaniac’s KA24E turbo setup (I still hate you for that), doesn’t mean your car’s gonna be super fast. Stock SR’s will probably still challenge you.
Buying a turbo kit isn’t just about slapping it on and hoping you’ve got 200hp afterwards. It just isn’t that easy. If it was, there’d be KA-T’s running around everywhere.
Most KA’s are ticking time bombs. The ones that do run decently, they may be okay, but the moment you slap on something that wasn’t supposed to be there, ie. a turbo, shit’s gonna start happening. I like the KA-E just like you, but you gotta understand, the shit that we do to these motors, it wasn’t designed for it. Don’t think you’re going to be running for months problem free just because a bunch of other guys happened to have the same good fortune.
lol, am I saying anything about my car being super fast after the KA-T setup install? come on guys, don’t hate on the playa! but afterall, running in the 13’s is pretty darn good for me!
especially since I’m moving up\upgrading to another car next year!! so I’ll see what toy I can get my hands on lol.
That whole KA-T’s running around everywhere…first you need the money, the speed to grab the kit in your case haha jkz, then the know how, and learning about tuning especially with the KA-T’s, those and actually having the interest in going that route 
and as for the caution on turboing the KA, I’ll let you know when it blows…so I can either go CA or RB20, or swap in another KA, go back to NA sell my car and grab something better.
In that case, end this conversation and let’s talk about you selling me the tarbo kit.
lmao…I love your comeback
I ain’t selling it for $500 tho, I got some more goodies to actually complete the package! your looking @ $1000 bro…ClutchMasters Clutch Kit, BNIB AEM Wideband, Blitz BOV, Blitz BoOst gauge.
let me know if your serious, maybe I might consider, I mean afterall, rather you go thru the cautionary measures then me but in the end, I could care less if my KA blew lol…I’m pretty financially stable to learn it in a calm way if I fuck up and still get up from it fast. Thank God for that lol 
Okay honestly a KA-T CAN be reliable if done right. I go with the motto though if it was N/A leave it N/A. With the KA engines the compression 9.1:1 in your case Gurpreet and Miki, and the DE; 9.5:1 is much too high for a turbo setup. If you take for example the RB20 and SR20 are running 8.5:1. If you go with a KA-T setup on stock internals with 1xx,xxx km on you can make it run reliable if you run it piss rich for a decent amount of time, you must take into account though that there is the problem in that it is still a older engine and of much higher compression ratio then the Nissan turbo motors. Now I know CA’s SHOULD be rebuilt before running them so that point is valid, but the SR and RB series motors are pretty much drop in and go.
As for aftermarket, Jim Wolf makes ECU’s, cams, etc, as does PDM racing. If you want a PROPER turbo motor out of a KA, get eagle rods, CP low comp pistons, then with the KAE the problem lies in getting a metal head gasket for them as I do not know a place that makes them. Also with the rebult bottom end, you will want to get new cams, valves and valve springs to handle the boost. The KA series motors CAN be boosted nicely if done right. It’s just a matter of finding the money to do them properly. Although if you toss a turbo kit onto a KA it should be good up to 9psi if you run it REALLY REALLY rich and good up to 215-220 horsepower… but the torque will be much higher.
In all honesty I DO like the KA series engines just I have had very bad experiences with them. If I was to run a KA motor I would ITB it, run megasquirt, PDM cams and bigger injectors, and you can do it MUCH more reliably than a turbo and have much better performace. I do feel that as the KA was a N/A motor it should be left N/A and it was an excellent motor for its time and brand.
Lol at this thread.
I like and agree with a lot you say bro, cept…my KAE ain’t 9.1:1 only the really earlier motors with a designated code were of 9.1:1 compression since they had the higher compression pistons or something…I forget but ya. Sohc KAe’s are in the 8’s for compression, notably mine, even tho it’s an 89’…I checked way back man, don’t know about Miki’s tho Chris lol 
stiky…how many ka’s have u blown up now?
3, and I can’t stand them anymore lmao. And both KAE’s I’ve owned are the early production 1988 ones so they had the higher compression.
i dunno…i would go sr…nothin puts a smile on my face better then jumping in my car and terrorizing richmond hill at 630am on my way to work
:lol: I prefer RB’s love the deeper raspy sound much more than the sound of an SR. It will brighten my day much more.
Mine has 166,000km’s so far from the 143,000km when I bought the car, running mint and smooth, testimonies from test drives and my personal experience lol. Always take care of my things, cars are no exceptions, always wait for the fuel pump to prime up, never had engine or mechanical problems. You get out what you put in, that’s with anything really.
Royal Purple Synthetic for almost most of it’s life, we’ll see what the turbo kit can do lol…
***I’m really speculating to grab a skyline, CA 180sx, or Mk3 Supra 2.5GT…for a next car, but in the end I’ve always loved the bigger motors, especially 6’s and 8’s!
If you go CA 180… do a rebuild, you’ll need it. MK III Supra’s are heavy and bulky and skylines are the cream of the crop… but good luck with insurance.
from what I hear about them imports & insurance…all in the connections and right sources! lol
Just because the E runs smooth, doesn’t mean it is…
My E runs smooth as fuck, but compression test it and you’ll see 150-150-145-150.
If you calculate it, the engine’s are running 1% less effecient than if all cylinders were at the baseline of 150. Doesn’t sound like much, right?
5 PSI of difference isn’t much, but piece it all together, and cylinder 3 is the weakest link.
Of course, a rebuild will remedy that, but since we’re all driving around in beat up S13’s, its obvious we don’t have the moulah for a properly built KA. (note, “properly”)
I’m saving up for an SR this winter to put into my car in spring. Its reliable, and its got enough power to have some fun. Once I’ve got the reliability thing out of the way, I’ll be saving up for a proper KA-E rebuild.