i was just wondering how many people on here has had the chance to do a full engine build of a ka-e?
is it reliable or no???
Anything can be reliable if you’ve got the money and are able to do shit/find someone reputable enough to do shit right…
for a all motor build
im just trying to see my options if i should go all motor or boost
hmm, all motor KAE is better off than an all motor KA-DE from what I’ve heard, especially with the high compression tuning and build…should be very strong and fairly if not really torquey, they used highly tuned KAE’s back in races and motorsport.
Easy to work on motor too, go for it, whatever way seems best, but I know for boost, it’ll be straight forward with a lot of people and support across North America.
KA’s already make for great DD engines, a bulletproof N/A one would be pretty mint, response and decent power to boot.
Too bad it just isn’t economical… The cost of building an N/A SOHC making XXX power versus a mildly built boosted SOHC making possible 1.5 to twice as much as the N/A would just be a plain waste of money.
Of course, the N/A would make for a mint DD’er, it just wouldn’t be economical…
what do you mean it won’t be economical??? like gass wise??
and im not gona do it all at once.
ooh and would any one know what parts i should start looking for?? lol
pistons, rings, seals, connecting rods, valves lifters etc the list goes on. google it. or go to ka-t.org
Economical being $$$. For the power you make with a built NA KA24E, you could have double with a mild build + force induction.
I’m not trying to put you down, I’d love to see your build, I just wanted to point out that there’s cheaper and more cost-effective means to get to the power goals you’re looking for.
Either way you see it, good luck on the E build!
ooh i thought u mean like gas wise LOL um but like i said i won’t be building it right away
and i’m not sure yet if i’m going boost or all motor.
and i made this thread to see if some here has done it to c what my options were.
and thnx for the suport xsnrge
Go BoOst man, rebuild it, and get the parts you need to go turbo, it’ll be the best route with the best power and smile on your face and your wallet still feeling good haha! 
you’ll learn a lot, KA-T.org is the best resource. Make sure you get a Wideband gauge, even if you don’t plan to use any SAFC and just stick with 8psi stock T25 SR boost with a FMU, it’ll be the best way to make sure it’s running tip top and safely for a long long time. It’s all about the Air Fuel Ratios…Lean & RIch, you learn this and you can consider yourself better than the noobs that say for a KA-T you need stronger internals, cuz with 8-10psi and in many cases even higher, they’ve been able to withstand it.
I wouldint really bother, not that much power can be made from the KA-E, if you turbo it, it will be torqey, but other then that, don’t expect anything crazy. It’s been done before, and yea. Unless you plan on dropping 6k+ on JUST the motor to make a decent amount of power, then yea…
There’s a reason why people swap them out, and no, its not just to “hop on the bandwagon”.
^ lol, you have a lot to learn…
obviously with any motor, IF you want “insane power” like over the 300hp threshold, it needs to be strengthened. Otherwise, for the average power user for drift and some good ole drag or track with a 240, you don’t need to go adventurous with a crazy built engine.
p.s - what’s your idea of “decent power?” lol…I’m curious, it’s too bad you haven’t ridden or experienced a good KA motor…
Woah there bud, slow it down. Just because my car is on downtime does not mean that I haven’t driven or ridden in any crazy powered S-chassis. Besides that, I think your going a liltle bit too far with your speculations, you haven’t even met me yet you assume this much.
To me, decent power is 300-350hp. I’m not a speed freak. But, on a KA-E, the most I’ve seen pushed out of it was 250(NA), turbo’d, you’d get more of course. Anywho, you gotta think outside of the box, there is more to a motor then just what’s in the engine bay. You have to think about what your going to use to control that shit. Do you know of any companies that make full ECU’s for the single slammer?
I’m not doubting anyone of modding the shit out of that motor, but in reality, why do it? Why not just go for a CA/RB/SR/VQ/VG swap instead? Or even a KA24DE? Everything has potential, but there is ALWAYS a limit.
No replacement for displacement my friend.
^ Umm, ever heard of mega squirt? how many people run full ecu’s on tuned motors? they either stick with mechanical controllers such as FMU’s for mild turbo setups or switch to the later I first mentioned for infinite possibilities or an SAFC or other controller.
Why do it? why not? why waste money on a CA or SR, counting the labour, time, and precautionary restoration, when you have a motor in there to fabricate a turbo setup for. It’s all in the research, you need to spend some time checking this stuff, im amused to hear your “decent” power remark…ya I’m sure it would be even 3k+ let alone 6k to get a KAE to 300-350hp. Facts, work with them, it’s funny when you slap a turbo on a KAE with stock SR T25 running 7-8psi making the same if not a bit more hp/tq then a KADE, as with any motor whether it’s torque rich or not, tuning can always adjust that but that aside, KA-T will enlighten you instead of the pointless remarks.
I ain’t speculating anything, besides the fact you need to look into these things more. In the end, all is happiness and cheery, no replacement for displacement is correct! haha
We all have our reasons, for “why do it?” 
not everyone will agree to everything we say, about an RB, SR, CA, and others…swaps. Each have their respective points, ups and downs man. N\A is wayy more time and money for any KA motor with minimal results compared to easy and cheaper Turbo power.
Maybe, but you still contradict yourself bad. In order to run a turbo setup on a once N/A motor, you need to beef up the internals. In reality, like all things are, you will end up removing the motor, and replacing, modding internals and such, then have to put it BACK into the car. Most if not all people say fuck it. How many KA-E turbo setups have you seen that are reliable? I’m not bashing you, it’s just that your coming off as ignorant. And how do you compare a stock SR to a KA with a t25? Honestly, who does that shit? It’s so lame.
Bottom line is, it all comes down to the aftermarket support. If there is none, then sure, go ahead and attempt to make shit work, but don’t think it’s a walk in the park, and don’t try to come off as a super know it all guru, that just so happens to know how to squeeze an extra 60ponies out of a motor with a paper clip and some aluminum foil.
end rant/
Anywho, to the OP. Do what you want, this is just what happens when you ask for an opinion. You gotta make those choices on your own.
Anything is possible if you got the coin to back it up…
depends on what kind of power goals O.P is looking to get. na can go upto about 200whp. i would try it with a bc 272 cam, pacesetter header, individual throtle bodies and a megasquirt (e-manage if u want piggyback) . since the engine was built to be n/a it would be a bit more reliable that way. my itb ka24de project failed but it could have been done had i been a little carefull.
Wow man…you don’t comprehend what is said to you eh?
did I ever say you need to do a build, NO!! for anything 7-8psi even higher it’s been done on stock internals… lol. You’ve proven yourself what “you think” you know, thanks for coming out.
good luck for the future, hopefully your KA or your car will actually run in the near future, you may just be needing that paper clip and aluminum foil you speak of…ghetto tuning equals ghetto results
Fuck that shit… 7 PSI max I’d still be sketchy on the internals…
Fuck if it’s been done on stock internals before. Every engine is different. Unless you owned the car from day one, you don’t know how its maintained.
The block is still good, so’s the journals on the crank. Just do a mild build. It’s better than blowing up your engine and having to try to rebuild it with fucked up crank journals from your spun rod bearings… Sure you could buy another KA for cheap, put your turbo shit on it and stick it in the car, but why the excess effort?
Do it right or do it twice. Rip the sucker apart, build it up, then boost. Otherwise, stick with I/H/E