I checked my ECU, it’s throwing a code 34 (knock sensor). I suspected this since it felt as if the car was pulling timing and running very rich since forever. I thought to try the 1 megaohm resistor trick to see if the code goes away. It came back, meaning I have bad wiring, or I didn’t hook up the resistor properly.
Any ideas on how to proceed on finding the short, or how to run new wire? I’m 90% sure my knock sensor’s fine, and its just the wiring as the resistor didn’t do shit.
DE or E?
I forget what you have 
C’mon dude KA24E’s don’t even have a knock sensor! 
I have a completely stock KA24DE.
The ECU detected an open or short in the circuit.
Code 34 - Knock Sensor Diagnostic Chart 
DIAGNOSTIC CHART IMAGE
Knock Sensor 
CIRCUIT DIAGRAM IMAGE
Connector Location 
ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS IMAGE
Final Check 
FINAL CHECK IMAGE
Knock Sensor Terminal “F”
Using an ohmmeter capable of 10 megaohm, measure the resistance between terminal B and ground.
Replace the sensor if continuity does not exist.
Very easy diagnosis. Continuity to ground? ECM? Check knock sensor.
Replace as needed.
Sorry, Not a KA guy no more. My mind is bombfucked full of RB bullshit.
I checked the voltage from the knock sensor harness plug coming from the ECU, I put one lead on a pin in the plug, the other to the engine ground. I got 3.29V. I put the leads, one on each pin on the knock sensor harness connector (coming from the ECU). I got 3.29V. I put one lead on the power wire in the plug coming from the ECU, and one lead on the ground of the plug coming from the knock sensor. I got 1.29V, wtf?
I checked resistance across the pins on the plug coming from the knock sensor, my multimeter didn’t show anything. It can read up to 2000k ohms apparently.
Also, there is no continuity between the ground and power wire on both plugs. I am confused at the voltage drop though when using the plug coming from the knock sensor.
I don’t know how to proceed now…I was sure there’d be a short, and I would just bypass it, but now I don’t know wtf to do…the 1 Mohm resistor trick did not fool the ECU, and it still read a code 34 after I cleared it and ran the engine for a bit. This should have worked…its been done many times before especially on VG30DETT, which are impossible to work on. Even the KA has a shitty place for the knock sensor, access wise…
Any ideas?
I’ll have to get back to you on this after I wake up.
All I can say now is, well something wong. lol
Maybe Mike will jump in on this one.
It could be ur knock sensor
^LOL.
I haven’t slept yet either, its 9:43am, I might as well sleep. I’ll get at the wiring near the knock sensor when I do my next oil change, apparently its possible to reach it with the oil filter removed…along with that bracket under the intake manifold. I doubt I’ll fix anything by reaching the knock sensor with my hand.
Btw if I haven’t already mentioned, the infamous 1 megaohm resistor trick did NOT work…this is what’s pissing me off the most, still had a code 34. The voltage is good to the plug from the ECU, and so is the ground, they’re not shorted together either…weiiiiiird.
I might end up taking this to Sasha or Stephen or Sydney or Pur…I wanna diagnose it first to minimize labour costs. The brokeness monster BITES. lol